HOW SWEDE IT IS!

By Barbara Barton Sloane

Welcome to one of the world’s most creative and exciting urban scenes. You are within walking distance to eight centuries of unique cultural experience and you are surrounded by 24,000 islands and islets. Where in the world are you? You’re in Stockholm, Sweden of course, one of today’s most popular tourist destinations.

The kingdom of Sweden is in Northern Europe, located on the Scandinavian peninsula between Finland and Norway, and the Oresund Fixed Links connect Sweden with Denmark. My recent visit to Stockholm, Sweden’s capital, built on 14 islands, treated me to a unique blend of old charm, modernity, creativity and vitality. From Gamla Stan - Old Town - northern Europe’s largest and best-preserved medieval city dating to the 13th century - to it’s throbbing modern metropolis, with its famed design centers, vibrant shopping districts and modern architecture, Stockholm offers the visitor the best of both worlds.

King or Queen for a Day
Old Town has held onto its medieval-city character with narrow lanes, cobbled streets and old market squares. I sat in one of the quaint cafes and was captivated by its ancient charm. Deciding it would be fun to start my visit here in a most regal fashion, I made my way to the Royal Palace. With 608 rooms, this is one of Europe’s largest palaces and is used today as offices for the King and Queen.

Walking through the Royal Palace’s majestic halls, I distinctly felt the presence of royalty, a sensation both grand and solemn. This regal presence led me into a room where I saw the very costume that Gustav III wore the night he was murdered, and the horse (now stuffed, of course) that Gustav II rode into the Battle at Lutzen. Leaving that rather melancholy room, I entered the Treasury which displayed some of the past monarchy’s most important symbols still worn at Royal weddings, baptisms and funerals.

The Changing of the Guard
I was told this was an event not to be missed, and I’m glad I didn’t. This ceremony takes place every day at noon and is replete with pomp and circumstance, color and grandeur. I was lucky to find a guide who escorted me through the Hovstallet, not far from the Palace, where I got an up close and personal look at the King’s horses, magnificent coaches and handsome uniforms.

Swede Dreams
To carry a Royal visit to its logical conclusion, be aware that a number of palaces near Stockholm offer overnight accommodations. You can spend a night at both Sodertuna Slott and Sundbyholms Slott, each beautifully situated near the water. Sodertuna Slott was constructed in the 18th Century, and is located 43 miles south of Stockholm while Sundbyholms Slott is west of Stockholm and can be reached by car in about an hour and a half. Both palaces retain much of their former glory but have been brought into the 21st century with the addition of modern conveniences.

Next, I visited City Hall, widely considered to be one of the most beautiful city halls in the world. Here I found a living symbol of this city, a building buzzing with activities, people and life. The famous Blue Hall and Golden Hall, where the Nobel Prize Gala and Banquet are held each December, was a highlight of my tour. Knowing that I’d never experience this banquet first-hand, I went for the next best thing: dinner at Stadshuskallaren, a restaurant in the basement of City Hall, where I had the chance to sample food enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners. The chefs here are the very ones that prepare the banquet and I couldn’t resist asking for “whatever the prize winners have.” Out came a mountain grouse breast baked in black trumpet mushrooms with caramelized apples served with Calvados sauce and potato cake and for dessert, a fig and cherry compote. Dining on a sumptuous meal in such elegant surroundings, I felt that the prize winners had nothing on me – well, at least not in the food department!

While wandering around the alleys of Old Town, I stumbled upon Stockholm’s central cathedral, I Trangsund. My lucky day. A classical music concert was just beginning. Dusk filtered in through leaded glass
windows and shimmered off the golden angels on the high brick ceiling. Perfect. Before returning to my cozy room at the Hotel Stureplan, I was attracted to a patio bar, the Babylon, where I was surrounded by chattering clusters of fashion plates and artist types. Wrapping myself in one of the restaurant’s green fleece blankets to ward off the evening’s chill, I gobbled down a late bite of potatoes and roding, a local fish. From my barstool, I watched skateborders dip and sail around in an adjacent park, and I reveled in a priceless travel high: the giddy feeling of having discovered the coolest place in town!

Animal Island
The next day I visited Royal Djurgarden, known as Animal Island because it was once the Royal hunting ground. On this island is Skansen, an open-air museum and one of the most visited places in the city, containing more than 150 historic buildings that have been dismantled and reassembled here. The area houses more than 70 varieties of animals, and I enjoyed watching 3 bear cubs, (cute!), a Scandinavian moose (big!), and reindeer (way smaller than Rudolf!)

Nearby is the famed Vasa Museum featuring the warship Vasa which sank in Stockholm fifteen minutes after it was launched on her maiden voyage in 1628. After 333 years under water, she was raised in 1961 and is now, after meticulous reconstruction, housed in its own museum.

A great way to view this beautiful city is by boat. There’s an “Under the Bridges of Stockholm” tour, a “Royal Canal” tour, an “Historical Canal” tour, and many, many more. I took the Royal Canal tour and must tell you that, as I gently glided through the water, I felt slightly regal and royal myself. A classic – and classy – way to see Stockholm.

No visit to Stockholm is complete without shopping! I checked out the Sturegallerian, an elegant mall with fabulous Swedish and international stores and the city’s most exclusive gym and spa, Sturebadet. I didn’t take advantage of the gym but made sure I got in some reviving retail therapy and left with a fabulous pair of Acne Jeans!

Before catching my direct flight home on SAS – Scandinavia’s own airline - I headed over to the Pontus! Restaurant for a special last dinner in Stockholm. Named for its renowned chef, Pontus Frithiof, the place is colorfully decorated with murals over different levels of the restaurant. My table directly faced the Library Mural, a gorgeous faux rendering of books
stacked on shelves up to the ceiling, making this vast restaurant seem cozy and warm.

The beauty of this city, built on many islands, with bridges, squares and glorious Beaux Arts buildings all perfectly integrated, has no rival. It’s a very welcoming, walkable city where surprising and delightful experiences await you at every turn. Stockholm – a truly capital city!


Swede Things
Hotel Stureplan Babylon
Berjer Jarlsgatan 24, www.hotelsturplan.se 4 Bjorns Tradgardsgrand,
Tel: 46 8 440 6600 Tel: 46 8 1640 8083

Sturegallerian Vasa Museum
Grevtureg 13A, www.sturegallerian.se Galervarvsvagen 14
Tel: 46 8 453 50 00 Tel: 46 8 442 80 00

“Let Stockholm Flow” Boat Tour Pontus! Restaurant
www.stockholmsightseeing.com Brunnsgatan 1
Tel: 08 1200 40 00 Tel: 46 8 545 27300

SAS Airlines Royal Court
www.flysas.com www.royalcourt.se

Royal Djurgarden Royal Palace
Djurgardsslatten 49-51 Slottsbacken 1
Tel: 46 8 442 80 00 Tel: 46 8 402 6130

City Hall Visit Sweden
Hantverkargatan 1 www.visitsweden.com
Tel: 46 8 508 290 00

GET READY TO BE INSPIRED!

by Barbara Barton Sloane

With New York City’s countless offerings, it would take more time than most visitors have to see all this city has to offer. From attractions such as the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building, New York is brimming with sights to see. The question is, where to start?

Why not start at the top – that is to say, at three heavenly-inspired sites:
St. Patrick’s Cathedral, The Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine and Temple Emanu-El. Each of these iconic houses of worship is architecturally grand, awe-inspiring, and steeped in history. So, come all ye faithful – or anyone seeking a deep and moving experience. Here are The Big Three religious places of worship in New York City. On your next visit to The Big Apple, you may just want to check them out for yourself.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Fifth Avenue @ 50th St.) is the seat of the Catholic Archbishop of New York, Cardinal Egan. It was begun in l858 by Archbishop John Hughes and, after a suspension of work during the years of the Civil War, John Cardinal McCloskey, the first American Cardinal, resumed work in 1865, opening the doors in May of 1879. Throughout the years, extensive additions, installations and renovations have been made, and the present Cardinal Egan has continued to enhance the beauty of the cathedral, repairing the interior and exterior of the church.

This famed Cathedral has been host to the visits of many popes, including John Paul II. Royalty, heads of state and other prominent figures, as well, have made a visit to St. Patrick’s.

The Cathedral’s statistics are amazing to ponder. Its spires rise 330 feet from street level and its beautiful bronze doors on the West Front weigh 20,000 pounds. Seating 2,400 people, there are 18 alters and 19 bells made in Savoy, France, installed in 1897. In the crypt, the archbishops of New York are buried under the high alter, and the hats of the first four cardinals hang from the ceiling over their tombs. Visiting this site, one is moved by the Stations of the Cross, works of art that won first prize at the Chicago World’s Fair of 1893, and if one is lucky enough to be there at just the right time, the great organ with over 7,000 pipes will pierce the solitude and will enthrall one and all.

The Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine, (1047 Amsterdam Ave. @ 112th St.), the mother church of the Episcopal Diocese of New York and the Seat of its Bishop, is chartered as a house of prayer for all people and a unifying center of intellectual light and leadership. This cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. It is larger than Chartres and Notre Dame combined, and the Statue of Liberty could fit beneath its central crossing. This magnificent house of worship is a monument to the diversity and energy of New York City. Its Gothic nave and Romanesque choir are among the finest examples of the style in America. Eight gigantic granite columns, each weighing 130 tons, are the crowning glory of the sanctuary. More than 150 stained glass windows depict not only religious scenes but also the inauguration of George Washington, St. George and the Dragon, and Michelangelo’s carving of the David. The Rose Window in the West Façade contains more than 10,000 pieces of glass.

The Cathedral, like its medieval predecessors, serves as a center of inspiration, education and outreach for the people of New York City. On the same day, politicians and public figures will preach from the pulpit, expert tour guides lead visitors up winding stairs and through vaults, textile conservators restore historical tapestries, and major artists rehearse their evening performances. With its 11 acres of gardens and grounds, the Cathedral is a green oasis with peacocks, cherry trees and a recently restored Biblical Garden. St. John the Divine is a living cathedral, bringing harmony out of the incredible diversity of New York City.

Temple Emanu-El (1 E. 65th St.), stands along New York’s storied Fifth Avenue as an architectural, cultural and religious landmark. The building’s expansive dimensions and superb craftsmanship combine to create an imposing edifice that reinterprets the great historical synagogues of earlier eras. Eclectic architectural features of Romanesque, Byzantine, Moorish, Gothic, Nouveau and Deco styles are blended artistically through the use of vibrant colors. Captivating mosaics, warm stone and tiles, and dazzling stained glass are all designed to create the inspirational ambience of this sacred space.

Begun in 1927 and completed two years later, the new Temple building was the crowning achievement of the descendants of German-Jewish immigrants. During the ensuing decades, this small community of worshipers transformed itself into a great Reform Jewish congregation, confident of itself and in the promise of this city and nation.

The Temple’s multihued ceiling, originally constructed over a layer of plaster applied over structured steel, has since been painted and gilded. The Sanctuary ceiling is now, after restoration, truly breathtaking. The distinctive glass and marble mosaic arch that frames the Sanctuary, using a mixture of gold and vibrant colors, was inspired by the palette of Gustav Klimt. Temple Emanu-El’s organ, with its thousands of pipes ranging from more than three stories in length to the size of a pencil, fills the vast chambers behind the Sanctuary. The Temple and Chapel contain 62 stained- glass windows, and their design is rooted in ancient Jewish artistic traditions, tribal symbols and biblical images.

Today, more than seventy-five years after its doors first opened to welcome worshipers, Temple Emanu-El continues to occupy a very special place physically in the heart of New York City and emotionally and spiritually in the hearts of its members.

www.stpatrickscathedral.org
www.stjohndivine.org
www.emanuelnyc.org

"THE COWBOY POETRY GATHERING"

by Barbara Barton Sloane

When you hear the word “cowboy,” what comes to mind? Rugged, strong, no-nonsense individual, right? So, Cowboy Poetry? Yes.

The cowboy’s work is often lonely and isolated, a cycle of hard, dirty, dangerous jobs from the spring round-up through the cattle drive, the end of the trail and the return to the ranch. Surprising as it may seem, the cowboy, as with the miner, the logger, the fisherman –has a poetry-seeking tradition, whether it’s reciting the classics or reading their own poetry or prose.

The Cowboy Poetry Gathering takes place in Elko, Nevada on January 24-31, 2009. Elko is located in the northeastern corner of the state, 230 miles from Salt Lake City and 295 miles from Reno. The Western Folklife Center, host to the Poetry Gathering, is based in town, and is dedicated to preserving the traditional culture of the American West. It presented its first Poetry Gathering 25years ago, so the 2009 event marks its Silver Anniversary.

The Lure of Cowboy Life
I visited Elko recently to learn more about the upcoming poetry event, staying at the 71 Ranch, a guest ranch for the Working Cowboy Experience. The “71” is a real cattle ranch right in the middle of cowboy country and during my stay there I had the chance to be a part of day-to-day ranch life for a truly authentic experience. I rode horseback over a small part of the ranch’s 38,000 acres, right alongside some of the 2,500 head of cattle belonging to the ranch. Being new to sitting atop a horse, I elicited a promise from my cowboy guide that my slow-poke horse would not, under any circumstances, take it into his head to run. He didn’t and I stayed astride and very happy. That evening, we had a typical cowboy dinner of ribs, baked beans, potatoes and pie. A group of us then gathered around a campfire to ward off the chill which crept in at dusk. We sang along with a cowboy who entertained us with well-known Western songs, and, feeling warm and toasty, we were very happy campers!

The next day we visited the Western Folklife Center where they explained the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering. This is a week-long celebration of life in the rural west, featuring the contemporary and traditional arts of western ranching culture. Poetry, music, dance, stories, film, photography, food – all contribute to an event that has become an annual ritual and a place of personal meaning for thousands of people. And lest you think the performers are only the “boys,” I’m happy to tell you there are a lot of authentic cowgirls who recite their poetry as well. Among performers at January’s event will be National Public Radio commentator Baxter Black, the renowned “wacko” poet whose verse has been heard by millions. During my stay in Elko, I was lucky enough to see Baxter at the Elko Convention Center, filled to capacity, and everyone enjoying his raucous performance. The organizers of the upcoming Poetry Gathering promise that “we’ll dance all night, talk all day at the Pioneer Saloon, and enjoy all the artists being celebrated!” For tickets to the January 2009 National Cowboy Poetry Gathering, go to the website: www.westernfolklife.org or order by phone: 888-880-5885.

Elko and the surrounding area has much to offer, from the beauty of the land, the Ruby Mountains called the “alps of Nevada,” to the endless prairies covered with sage brush, bright yellow rabbit grass, juniper forests and dotted with grazing Black Angus wherever you look. The sky is always bright blue, the clouds big and billowy, and the mountain goats, big horn sheep, and elk are never far away.

Among some of Elko’s fun activities: watch a saddle being made at the famed J.M. Capriola Company, see pottery done the old-fashioned way at Tuscarora Pottery School, visit one of the many casinos, check out the handicrafts of Native Americans, visit the Northeastern Nevada Museum for an in-depth exploration of Nevada’s early years with exhibits of mining, ranching, native culture and Old West history, and end the day with a delicious dinner at a Basque restaurant.

There’s a lovely little poem that I read at the Folklife Center, aptly called “A Cowboy’s Prayer:”

I thank you, Lord, that I am placed so well,
That You have made my freedom so complete
That I’m no slave of whistle, clock or bell,
Nor weak-eyed prisoner of wall and street.
Just let me live my life as I’ve begun
And give me work that’s open to the sky;
Make me a pardner of the wind and sun,
And I won’t ask a life that’s soft or high.

At the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering, you’ll hear many poems just as heartfelt and profound as this and your experience will be a happy one.

If You Go:

Western Folklife Center
Tel: 435-657-3086
www.westernfolklife.org

71 Ranch
Tel: 1-866-717-7171
www.71-ranch.com

Red Lion Hotel & Casino
1065 Idaho St., Elko
Tel: 800-447-4136
www.HotelReservations.com

Star Hotel Basque Family-Style Restaurant
246 Silver St, Elko
Tel: 775-738-9925

Image courtesy of Sweet Light Photography

"HAWAII - SANCTUARY FOR BODY AND SOUL"

By Barbara Barton Sloane
Plumes of smoke rose heavenward from the base of Maunaloa. Because this is one of Hawaii’s very active volcanos, we were kept several hundred yards away from the site. Yet, even from a distance, the power and majesty of Maunaloa was awesome. Much about my recent trip to Hawaii’s Big Island and Maui was awe-inspiring. The islands were everything that one expects to find: tropical paradise, enveloping warmth, glistening blue sea and luxurious resorts. Badly in need of some serious R & R, I was delighted to find that the islands also offered a perfect destination for me to reconnect with nature – and with myself. Here I found a natural sanctuary to restore the soul.

On Hawaii’s Big Island, miles upon miles of untouched land contribute to its natural beauty. It’s a place of extremes – from fiery volcanoes to snow-capped mountain peaks; from acres of green pasturelands to vast ebony lava deserts; and from tropical rainforests and verdant valleys to white, gold, black and even green sand beaches. Out of 13 climatic regions on the planet, this island has all but two, Artic and Saharan. On the Big Island, whatever climate you’re craving, you’ll find it here.

For centuries, native Hawaiians have revered nature’s bounty from mauka to makai (mountain to sea) and have developed the powerful healing arts of Lomi Lomi massage using native plants in age-old practices and encouraging soul-searching through self-awareness and forgiveness. Dale Silva, co-founder of the Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Association says “without aloha – without love – for oneself, for the environment, for each other, how can you begin to heal? It all starts with aloha.” The aloha spirit is abundant here. You feel it in the sunshine that warms the sand beneath your feet, you see it in the clear ocean water, and you hear it in the gentle rain that falls in the forest.

Hibiscus flowers large as dinner plates line the lush drive to the Four Seasons Resort on the Big Island with deep green, velvet-like
lawns leading to the turquoise sea beyond. Greeted with a fragrant purple orchid lei placed around my neck by a pretty hostess and the words “welcome to the Four Seasons,” I had a hunch that I was in very good hands and that wonderful pleasures awaited me.

Chanting for Healing
Precisely at dawn the next morning, I was invited to participate in an Ocean Purifying Ceremony led by the resident ceremony leader, Daniel Akaka. As a group of us walked to the ocean, Daniel blew a conch shell to the four corners of the earth. He began a chant to clear the mind and start a new journey at daybreak. We stood in ankle-deep water as he instructed us to join hands, a symbol for inviting the people of all the lands to join us. His chant asked that we be instructed, educated and inspired as we go through life’s journey. As he offered a prayer of thanksgiving, he placed a Ti leaf (used to ward off evil spirits) around our necks and greeted us nose to nose. As we did this, we exhaled our breath in a “Ha” sound – the first sound uttered when we’re born and symbolizing the life force within each of us.

Daniel next took a bowl with small stones in it, emptied it and filed the bowl with pure water. He explained that as we go through life, we take on worries, problems, negativity. Each problem is like a stone, so to rejuvenate the soul, you have merely to turn the bowl over, let the stones drop away and allow pure water to refill the bowl. Simplistic? Maybe. I can just tell you that after this ceremony, the song “Don’t Worry, Be Happy” kept buzzing in my head and I left feeling cleansed and ready to start a fresh, new day – baggage-free.

Romance in the Air
I had dinner at the Four Seasons Pahui’a restaurant, dining en famille at a long wooden table that faced the ocean and gazing at a spectacular gold sunset as ocean breezes wafted over a tranquil blue sea. If you want a romantic setting, this is it! Soft Hawaiian ballads provided the music, tiki lamps lit the azure evening and, as the sky turned dusky, lights played on the ocean and captured creamy white caps rolling gently towards shore. As if that wasn’t enough, the food at Pahui’a was spectacular - Lobster Keahole, Dungness Crab, Sweet Waimea Corn fritters, and for dessert spice cake with sweet potato ice cream. Mother Nature herself graced the ambience of this restaurant and provided an unforgettable dining experience.

Welcome to Your Sensory Meltdown
At the Four Seasons Hualalai Sports Club & Spa, I found an oasis of sybaritic delights awaiting me. A uniquely Hawaiian spa, there is a lap pool, whirlpools, saunas, steam rooms and cold plunges - all set amidst tropical gardens. Among the Signature treatments offered: The Hualalai Experience, in which you're pampered with a Polynesian Niu (cocoanut) body scrub, a Lomi Lomi massage, and a Kane facial. I opted to experience the Cocoanut Scrub which transported me into a dream-like state. After the body polish, a warm blanket was wrapped around me and I was given a relaxing face and neck massage. The last step was an application of cocoanut milk and cococnut moisturizing lotion. My skin had never felt so silky smooth and I was beyond relaxed. My goal as I entered the spa was to be pampered, relaxed and feeling beautiful. Mission accomplished!

After checking into the Fairmont Orchid Resort, I walked down jungle-like paths lined with dramatic waterfalls leading to their Spa Without Walls, whose mission is to restore the mana (power) we hold within each of us. In a cabana at ocean’s edge, I experienced their signature Lomi Lomi massage. My masseuse used long, gliding, rhythmic movements to ease tension and relax muscles using my selection of essential oils to personalize the treatment. Mission accomplished!

One of the highlights of my stay at the Fairmont Orchid: Calley O’Neill, a true force of nature and a major attraction of this property. Calley teaches a class called Compassionate Healing Yoga. I took the class thinking it would be standard yoga filled with movements like Salute to the Sun and Downward Dog. Not so. Calley’s class is yoga for the mind, and she led us through ways to quiet the mind, rejuvenate the body, balance emotions and nurture the spirit – all in 60 minutes. The key to my being inspired, moved and feeling like a million bucks as the class ended was, quite simply, Calley herself. She is calm, centered and above all, caring. My session was mind-altering. Sound too good to be true? It isn’t.

From Chill to Sizzle
Once you leave the reverie of an Hawaiian spa and slowly re-enter the real world, you’ll find much to do on the Big Island. You can snorkel with the turtles at Kahulu’u Beach Park or see them up close and personal on the black sands of Panalu’u. Stargazing atop Mauna Kea is a truly spiritual
experience. If fishing is your thing, try catching a marlin off the Kona Coast. While on Kona, don’t forget to explore the ancient petroglyphs. Night diving with manta rays is other-worldly and a visit to a “garden in a valley on the ocean,” the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden with rain forests, waterfalls, exotic flowers, fruits and plants is a must-see. Their orchid garden is a photographer’s paradise. Year-round temperatures on the Big Island average 82 degrees so anytime is the right time to go.

E Komo Mai – Welcome to Maui
The flight to Maui from the Big Island took just 40 minutes. This island is known as “The Magic Isle” and for good reason. I kept wanting to pinch myself as I experienced the sheer, jaw-dropping beauty of Maui coupled with laid-back, lovely people whose warmth and friendliness are genuine.

The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa is a special place. Among its many charms, 40 lush, oceanfront acres, a 750,000-gallon pool with a 150-foot lava tube water slide, nightly Polynesian Luau, four uniquely themed restaurants and Spa Moana, where I had still another chance to unwind. I highly recommend the spa’s Rainforest Propolis and Cocoanut Milk Wrap. No, you don’t eat it, you allow the therapist to slather you with it! Delicious – and calorie-free!

A Cosmic Experience
That evening, sufficiently de-stressed and limp as a dish rag, I did something that was exactly what I needed to rejuvenate. Called “Tour of the Stars,” I climbed to the roof of the hotel where I met Hyatt’s Director of Astronomy. Peering through a 16-inch telescope, I saw Uranus, Venus, Polaris and several other planets, not to mention a luminescent moon and a midnight blue sky with a zillion stars. A perfect end to my day in paradise.

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa is surrounded by tropical gardens, meandering streams and waterfalls. There’s much to keep you busy here: five swimming pools, an exhilarating Wailele Polynesian Luau, two 18-hole championship golf courses, a shopping center and, of course, the ubiquitous spa, this one aptly named Heavenly. At Heavenly Spa I had their Lavender Body Butter Treatment which put me firmly on Cloud 9, gliding back to my room, feet never touching the ground! I arranged to go on a Sunset Sailing Cruise which docked near the hotel. Boarding the Gemini, a catamaran, I spent two hours smoothly Tradewind-sailing with phenomenal views of West Maui, Molokai and Lanai, sipping Mai Tais and munching Hawaiian appetizers. One of the highlights of this sail was when the captain dropped anchor and we watched a glorious sunset, tiki torch lighting and some brave young men cliff diving at Black Rock near the Westin coastline.

Culture, Traditions and Fun
To get a feel for Hawaiian culture and an understanding of their traditions, a group of us attended the Old Lahaina Luau. Just two of the many offerings at this sumptuous breakfast luau were Island Stuffed French Toast and Kalua Pork Hash with Lomi Salmon. Then we watched (and participated in) demonstrations of kappa-cloth making, spear-throwing, and poi-making. We listened to Hawaiian stories and songs and left with a deep respect for the people of this island who are dedicated to keeping their traditions alive.

Hawaii is a paradise, pure and simple. It’s impossible to list all that makes these islands special, but I’ve managed to narrow it down to a few of my favorite things:
*A wake-up call by tropical birds
*Not having to wikiwiki (hurry-hurry)
*Snorkeling with amazing underwater life
*A gentle rain –quickly followed by more sunshine
*Your nightcap: the soothing sound of the ocean
*The Hawaiian motto: Ho’okahi no la o ka malihini: A stranger only for a day

Hawaiians have a saying: I mohala no ka lehua I ke ke’ekehi ‘ia e ka ua. Easy for them to say, but the meaning is simple and sweet: The Lehua blossom unfolds when the rains tread on it. During my stay on these islands, I did, indeed, experience the warm, gentle rain. I rested, I relaxed, I unfolded. And yes, it was great!

Oh, almost forgot. There is one thing I definitely do not like about Hawaii:
Leaving.

If You Go:
The Big Island
*Big Island Visitors Bureau, www.bigisland.org *Kona Village Resorst
*The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Queen Ka’ahumanu Hwy, Ka’upulehu Hi
72-100 Ka’upulehu Drive, Kaupulehu HI Tel: 808 325-7820, www.konavillage.com
Tel: 808 325-8000, www.fourseasons.com/hualalai *Hilo Bay Cafe
*The Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii 315 Makaala St, Hilo HI
1 North Kaniku Dr, Kohala Coast HI Tel: 808 935-4939
Tel: 808 885- 2000, www.fairmont.com/orchid
*The Palms Cliff House
28-3514 Mamalahoa Hwy, Hilo HI
Tel: 808 963-6076, www.palmscliffhouse.com

Maui
Maui Visitors Bureau *Old Lahaina Luau
www.visitmaui.com 1287 Front St. Lahaina HI
*Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Tel: 808 667-2998
3700 Wailea Dr., Kihei HI www.oldlahainaluau.com
Tel: 808 879-1922, www.marriott.com *Pineapple Grill at Kapalua Resort
*Hyatt Regency Maui Resort &Spa 200 Kapalua Dr, Kapalua HI
200 Nohea Kai Dr, Lahaina HI Tel: 808 669-9600
Tel: 808 661-1234, www.maui.hyatt.com www.pineapplekapalua.com
*Westin Maui Resort & Spa *Chez Paul Restaurant
2365 Ka anapaliPkwy, Lahaina HI 820 Olowalu Village Rd, Lahaina HI
Tel: 808 667-2525, www.westin.com/maui Tel: 808 661-3843
www.chezpaul.net
*Sea Watch Restaurant at Wailea
100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea HI
Tel: 808 875-8080

FOR FALL 08 MINIMALISM GETS THE NOD

By Barbara Barton Sloane

A more grown-up attitude toward glamour is the big news in fall/winter fashion and the good news is this signals a return to the building-block basics of chic. Making a radical departure from romantic femininity, these looks speak to strength, cofidence and sex appeal, spot-on for today’s power woman. The designs are pared down to reveal their essence and value the sophistication of the lines. Now, after a spring season exploding with pyrotechnics, designers are learning to forgo frills in favor of strong, clean lines and a newfound maturity.

Appropriate for this season, Matthew Williamson for Pucci established an icy pastel palette mixed with graphic black and white. His silhouettes were perfect for the slopes with fur-lined parkas, shapely puff jackets, and skinny leggings. Completing the mood, there were cozy looks for fireside lounging in a suite at the Kulm Hotel. His furs, shearlings and brightly colored dyed fox juxtapose glam and sport, a feat he pulls off admirably. Williamson’s “coat of many colors” is pure Pucci. He has played with a palette of geometric shapes of dizzying hues: pink, purple, white and blue. With five seasons at Pucci behind him, it appears that Matthew Williamson has hit on a formula that works – resort dressing for the rich and fabulous.

If we’re in a recession, word hasn’t reached Oscar de la Renta. He’s still laying on the gold leaf. For fall/winter, his collection is replete with impeccable designs for gals young and old accustomed to La Dolce Vita. For day, de la Renta stayed true to his basic chic. There was a lovely, lean jacket in boiled cashmere over full-cut flannel pants and a boxy jacket in cashmere knit paired with a knee-length skirt in dip-dyed silk. Understated evening elegance was personified in elegant, full-cut black silk crepe trousers and lady-like white chiffon blouse with flowing scarf. Boom or bust, de la Renta knows what his ladies like.

Fall looks found Jean Paul Gautier of Hermes in a typically quiet mode. An oriental runway carpet was reinterpreted as a pattern for skirts, dresses, boots and jumpsuits. The collection figured heavily in coats, jackets, leather trenches and crocodile blazers. Long, thick-knit cardigans, shearlings and suede jackets lined in curly lamb were all accessorized with adorable knit caps and scarves. A very wearable yet utterly chic look: his brown leather skirt, elbow length gloves, and knee-high boots accessorized with a tobacco-colored skull cap and flowing knit scarf. The appeal of this low-key presentation is the quality of the workmanship and their “hand”, (their touch and feel), a Hermes hallmark.

Dennis Basso celebrates his 25th anniversary as a furrier this year, and there was a celebratory feeling in the air at his show. Lorraine Bracco arrived bearing a congratulatory bouquet and his loyal ladies came wearing his coats despite the pouring rain. No surprise, there were plenty of lavish furs on the runway worked in interesting, intricate ways as only Basso can do. The first look to come down the runway: a trapeze coat in creamy alligator on top and Russian sable below was a good indication of the luxe designs to follow. Basso loves to show off the limitless imagination of his design team. A broadtail jacket, to give just one example, was spliced with handmade lace inserts and trimmed in silver fox. In a crisp, buttoned-up look displaying the technical innovations of his factory, his model sashayed down the runway in a short gray wool skirt with matching jacket. The wow factor of this outfit was the elbow to wrist cuffs and hem trimmed in sumptuous silver fox, all topped off with a prim white shirt tied with a bow at the neck. Basso may have a quarter century of experience in the fur trade, but he has significantly less as a designer of ready-to-wear, as witnessed with an over-the-top trapeze dress that almost suffocated its model in marabou feathers. He made up for this, however, with three understated black gowns that his devotees would adore wearing underneath a Basso sable.

The drawing rooms of the Upper East Side that were the inspiration for Carolina Herrera’s spring show have been replaced with the wide open spaces of the countryside. But not to fear as the designer has not skimped on the look of luxe. This season, she’s focused primarily on separates, capes over matching jackets, long, slim pants, cashmere vests layered over chiffon shirts, and riding pants and jackets. This horsey look was explained in her program notes as something “to grab from the mudroom and throw over a crinkle chiffon gown for an elegant dinner on the farm.” Ah yes, those rustic dinners among the animals! A bit more citified was her beige cape over tight brown leggings, shiny patent boots and a blouse accented with a big champagne satin bow. Most of Herrera’s pieces could play in the city – velvet jeans, a long chartreuse chiffon dress and a floral jacquard vest worn over a corseted china blue gown trailing several feet of gazar in its wake - all clearly destined for the Park Avenue party circuit.

At Gucci, Frida Giannini got across quintessential Gucci-ness in all its sexy, show-offy persona, integrating a Russian/ Cossack/folklore feel with a hippie wardrobe: printy, shaggy, peasant designs that the Portobello market was known for in the seventies. Happily, the looks are cleaned up to work with today’s luxury values and this collection ranks as one of Giannini’s most confident so far, with a billowy-sleeved, embroidered peasant blouse over a pair of gold, chain-laden hipsters thrust into riding boots reminiscent of Rudolf Nureyev. The show swung into tapestry coats, short chiffon dresses, and flippy skirts. One particular standout was a silver-tipped fox jacket worn with stovepipe hipsters, a brightly colored peasant belt, and high black patent boots, their fringes swingy gaily.

The antler chandeliers spray painted gold were the first clue that we were in for a change of scenery at Ralph Lauren’s fall show, as he swapped Central Park for Colorado. His family retreat continues to be an inspiration for many of his signature looks and with this show, he reprised several of them, with grand results. He opened with a series of city dresses and suits in cashmere herringbone and black double-face that hugged the body. Soon, however, he headed west to the land of border stripe, swing jackets, red and black plaid suits and a hip-hugging blanket hunting jacket in green buffalo plaid. His plaids lingered after dark but for evening Lauren was far more than one-note. There were supple, draped velvets in hunter green and garnet decorated with beads. An even more dramatic look was a black tulle gown with a cutaway back. Lauren knows that wherever his ladies find themselves, out west or back east, they always have an RL party dress on hand.

Bianca Jagger was declared the inspiration for Badgley Mischka’s fall/winter collection. The seventies were the duo’s starting point, including a brick-red, crinkled leather jacket worn with a matching flared skirt and a tight-fitting apricot turtleneck and boot-cut glen plaid pants worn with a short and sweet broadtail and fox vest. Worked in among the floral shirtwaists, floppy felt hats and high suede boots were the team’s typical, reliable and tireless clothes that the gals with a Bergdorf charge card live for: a pencil skirtsuit in buff tweed shot with metallic thread, wool crepe tuxedo pants and a little silk faille jacket with short mink sleeves.

After a spring season exploding with pyrotechnics, for fall designers have learned to forego frills in favor of strong, clean lines, newfound maturity and wearable, wonderful, very welcome basics!

"INTO THE BLUE"

Merging Sea and Sky in Cyprus

by Barbara Barton Sloane

A Zen parable says: “When a fish swims, it swims on and on and there is no end to the water. When a bird flies, it flies on and on and there is no end to the sky.” Here on this ancient island one enters into a Blue Zone. The color of the Mediterranean changes from crystal clear turquoise to lapis to azure and there is no end to blue water. With perfect weather almost 365 days of the year, the sky above remains the color of a robin’s egg and there is no end to blue sky. I have just arrived in Cyprus and as its famed golden light washes over me, my mood is far from blue!

There are few places on earth that can compare with the charm and beauty of Cyprus. This carefree, gentle island marries European culture with ancient history and offers an incomparable blend of classical legend, historic architecture and rich tradition. Cyprus is a small country of 3,600 square miles. It encompasses four major towns: Lefkosia, Larnaka, Lemesos and Pafos. Situated at the crossroads of three continents – Europe, Asia and Africa – this geographic position has, from antiquity, played an important role in the island’s 10,000 year history. Almost no matter where you go, you can be sure that you walk on a piece of the past.

As I explored the countryside, I traveled through tiny villages, visited Byzantine churches and remote monasteries and was entranced by a landscape of rugged hills, lush forests and ancient olive groves. On this island once walked Jesus’ apostles. In 395AD the Byzantine Empire flourished here and Christianity was declared the official religion. Cyprus was also a part of the Ottoman Empire for three hunded years. Fast forward to 1878. Cyprus came under British rule and remained that way until 1960, when the independent Republic of Cyprus was established and Archbishop Makarious III was elected the first President.

In 1974, Turkey occupied the northern part of Cyprus and today37% of this country is under Turkish rule. The Cyprus/Turkish problem continues although there are now on-going talks for reunification. My travel companions and I were only vaguely aware of this separation. However, when we visited villages in the north, and saw areas enclosed by barbed wire with United Nations flags flying, we knew that our travels in Cyprus ended at this fence.

Mighty Aphrodite
Our first day in Cyprus took us to Pafos, which dates from the 4th century BC. The entire town is listed as a World Heritage site and the reason for that soon became clear. Here are numerous important archaeological ruins, ancient monasteries, churches and catacombs. Last but not least, there is a big boulder that juts out of the turquoise sea and it is here that Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, is said to have risen from the foam. Legend has it that if a woman comes to the sea at midnight during a full moon and swims to the spot where Aphrodite was born, she will inherit her beauty, and if a man performs this feat, he will have eternal youth. A good reason to take the plunge. The closest I came to living this myth was visiting the Fontana Amorosa dedicated to the goddess. As the fountain bubbled forth and I dipped in a toe, I was captivated by this romantic fable. Was this liquid spouting skyward merely water? No, I preferred to believe it was the real thing: Aphrodite’s love potion!

Our group left the Fountain of Love feeling somewhat lovelier, and we were off to the Tombs of the Kings, one of the major archaeological attractions of Pafos. As we entered this underground site, we were surrounded by massive Doric pillars and a honeycomb structure with tombs carved into sheer rock vaults. The damp, gray silence permeating this site soon made us long for the Cyprus sun. We emerged into its warmth and headed for lunch. At Skorpios, a taverna-style restaurant, they served traditional food. We had our first taste of meze which means an array of 20 or more dishes including dips, vegetables, fish and meat. Some of the offerings were small Cypriot sausages, roast potatoes, avgolimono soup and my particular favorite, Haloumi, known as the cheese that does not melt. Fry it, grill it, do whatever you want and it retains its shape. It was delicious. Naturally, our meal was accompanied by good, local red wine.

Before leaving Pafos, we visited the House of Dionysos containing splendid mosaic floors that date from 3rd to 5th century AD. The mosaics here are considered some of the finest in the world and depict scenes from Greek mythology.

The next day dawned bright and sunny (no surprise!) and we were ready for a jeep ride into the countryside to the Akamas Peninsula. The ride took us through picturesque, centuries-old villages with houses deliciously painted in colors of banana, peach and cream. Here and there we saw men riding donkeys or an occasional shepherd grazing his sheep and goats. The air was fragrant with olive groves and orchards of cherry, apple and pear. Looming over all, Mount Olympus, mauve colored and topped with a dusting of white.

Bacchus and Beyond
We were looking forward to our visit to Omodos. We’d been told of this village’s 5,000 year history of winemaking, so no way were we going to miss it! The very first product produced here was a sweet, dessert wine called Commandaria that, turns out, some in our group were inordinately fond of. We lunched at the Antoniades Winery, sampling the wines while nibbling on tiny meatballs, small pita envelopes filled with cheese, an assortment of cold meats, raisins and almonds. Marios Antoniades, the Managing Director was genial and welcoming. All in all, our meal was the piece de resistance and a visit here is highly recommended. Wine lovers alert: There is an annual wine festival held in Lemesos (Limassol) in September. Attendees can drink as much wine as they want – free - for 10 full days! Lemesos is Cyprus’ second largest city, the center of the wine industry and the island’s main port. Here the famed Agia Napa Church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is said that an icon bearing her image was found in a glen (Napa) and is housed in this church.

A Capital City
Lefkosia (Nikosia),the country’s thousand year old capital, is situated in the center of Cyprus and is a large, cosmopolitan hub filled with appealing stores for some retail therapy, lively tavernas for eating, dancing to Zorba music and, if the mood strikes, for breaking plates! The Cyprus Handicraft Center is not to be missed. One observes women practicing the traditional arts of embroidery and lace making much the same as in ages past. In his day, Leonardo DaVinci visited Cyprus and was so enchanted by the Lefkeridika – intricate geometric embroidery – that he purchased an alter cover still used today in the Church of Milan. At the Byzantine Museum the dazzling rooms of Christian icons are the richest collection of art of this kind in Cyprus, covering the 9th to 18th centuries. The Cyprus Archaeological Museum was one of the highlights of my entire Cyprus experience. The museum houses the largest collection of archaeological treasures in Cyprus. Walking through its fourteen galleries chock-a-block with priceless artifacts dating from the Neolithic age to the 7th century AD was a heady experience. There was magnificent gold jewelry from the Bronze Age, and an unforgettable and captivating marble statue of Aphrodite from the 1st century BC. Her head held high and regal, her expression soft and guileless, she is missing her arms but definitely not her charms!

There is so much to see and do here. Surrounded by the sea, there’s a host of water sports, sailing, hiking, cycling and several very good golf courses. Because of Cyprus’ advantageous location in the Mediterranean, it is “Cruise Central.” Make Cyprus your home base and take a two or three-day cruise to Egypt, Israel, Lebanon or Greece. You depart early evening and arrive the next morning. Many vacations rolled into one.

Birdland
Our last day in Cyprus was spent in Larnaka, one of the oldest continually-inhabited cities in the world and home to the Church of St. Lazarus, said to be the spot where he is buried. Restored in the 17th century, it houses excellent examples of baroque woodcarving. We took a walk by a large salt lake. Migratory birds and wild swans make this lake their annual stopover, and as we were about to leave, a great pink cloud descended on the lakeshore – hundreds of flamingos, a perfect photo op and a perfect way to end our Cyprus holiday.

It is said that when Aphrodite stepped from the sea foam onto the shore at Pafos, the locals welcomed her with open arms. When you visit Cyprus and are greeted with “kopiaste!” (“come join us”), I think you’ll feel just as the goddess did….most welcome.

If you go:
Cyprus Tourism Organization
13 E. 40th St, NYC
Tel: 212.683.t280
E: gocyprus@aol.com
Almyra Hotel
Poseidonos Avenue 8042,Pafos
Tel: (357) 26 888 700
www.thanoshotels.com
Le Meridien Spa & Resort
Limassol
www.cyprus.lemeridien.com
Antoniades Winery Ltd
Lemesos
Tel: 00357-25422638
www.antoniadeswinery.com

"INTO THE BLUE"