PAMPERING MADE PERFECT AT THE POINT

Saranac Lake, N.Y.

We are in the Adirondack wilderness driving a winding road, snow covered evergreens forming a narrow passageway. Ahead of us, an intricate gate fashioned from logs and branches and spelling out The Point. After punching in a code, the gate opens very s-l-o-w-l-y as if to say: “Take a deep breath. Relax. Let the wonders of this very special place envelop you.”

We’ve arrived at The Point, the last of the Great Camps of the Adirondacks, considered by many to be the premiere resort in the country and Conde Nast Traveler’s highest rated property. From the end of the Civil War to the beginning of the great depression, Gilded-age magnets built magnificent mansions made of logs and collectively called the Great Camps. The Point was built as a private retreat for the William Avery Rockefeller family between 1930-33 by the prominent Adirondack camp architect William Distin. It is situated on a 75 acre peninsula jutting into Upper Saranac Lake and today consists of a main lodge and 11 distinctive and delightfully decorated rooms for a handful of very lucky guests. The rooms have Adirondack twig furniture, huge stone fireplaces, down beds and each strikes a balance between being grand yet intimate. Here you have the romantic notion of “roughing it” in comfort, elegance and gentility.

Entering the grand log mansion, we were greeted by the General Manager, Mark Stebbings who ushered us into the Great Hall and offered a glass of Champagne. Everything about the Great Hall was great. It evoked the Adirondack camps of old with rough luxe, animal trophies lining the walls, massive native cut stone fireplaces blazing, vast sink-in sofas and a view of the frozen silver lake beyond. Mark took us on a brief walk-about to acquaint us with the property and then we were shown to our room.

All is Calm, the Fire is Bright
All was in readiness – a carafe of wine, a roaring fire in a fieldstone fireplace that reached up to the timbered ceiling, lamps softly glowing, candles flickering. We were delighted by a cloud-soft bed made entirely from branches with tree trunk posts that made it appear to be growing out of the floor. It was amusingly and deliciously grand, and Goldilocks, herself, would have pronounced it “just right!” Icicles four feet long formed a grid over our leaded glass windows like so many pieces of Swarovski crystal and the snow on our roof was deep and sumptuous as vanilla icing on a wedding cake. The warm comfort of our room beckoned us to linger but the experience of dining en famille with our fellow guests was too appealing to pass up.

Rustic Opulence
The Great Hall is where the meals are served. We dined by candlelight flickering over a table laid with fine china, crystal and silver. We had individual menus at each place setting. Turning our menus over, we saw that all of our names were listed – first names only! Quoting Shakespeare, “discretion is the better part of valour,” at The Point. Our meal was enriched by lively conversation, and generous amounts of fine wine. It made for a true house-party atmosphere. The food, prepared by Chef Kevin McCarthy, was extraordinary, from the scallops with parsnip and apple, to celery root ravioli to roasted and braised veal, and ending with a lemon-lime soufflé.

The next day dawned sunny and bright, perfect for snowshoeing. Mark was our guide leading the way over the frozen lake and into the woods, up hills and down dales. Although the trek was somewhat arduous we enjoyed every minute of the silent, white forest that surrounded us, and returned back to the Lodge nearly two hours later, tired but with a sense of accomplishment.

Dinner at Eight
Each evening cocktails are served at seven, dinner at eight, and as this was Saturday, dinner was black-tie, a bow to yesteryear’s Great Camp dining. After dinner, one last experience awaited us: a snow picnic by a bonfire in the woods. Mentioning our interest to one of the staff, we quickly found ourselves being led along a path twinkling with tiny white lights to an all-out, roaring bonfire. Around the fire, twelve Adirondack chairs piled with warm woolen blankets and cushy pillows to sit on. Making this a truly memorable event: a fully-stocked bar, long branches to spear marshmallows for roasting and all the fixings for S’Mores. Who could ask for anything more?

Your Wish is our Command
This phrase defines the level of service offered by the staff. Want breakfast in bed, lunch at a fairytale cottage in the woods, or a sumptuous dinner served by a fire in your room? You have but to ask. In fact, service here is so professional and discreet it seems you just have to wish for something and – presto! As if by magic, it happens.

The Point in winter is, indeed, a magical place with a wealth of activities and diversions: ice skating across the frozen Saranac, miles of cross-country skiing right in the backyard, snow-shoeing in an enchanted forest, even ice fishing. And in summer there’s water skiing, swimming, boating or lake tours in one of The Point’s venerable mahogany cruisers. Here there’s nothing that one has to do but much one can do.

As we prepare to depart, our ever-attentive staff has prepared box lunches for our journey. Nothing left to chance, nothing forgotten. Oh wait, maybe there is one thing they’ve overlooked: a tissue to dab our eyes as we bid The Point adieu.

Planning to go?
www.relaischateaux.com/point
800.255.3530

SPRING IS HERE, I HEAR

It’s All About the Girl
By Barbara Barton Sloane

This season designers put basic black and stark white on the back-burner, choosing instead florals, sheer fabrics and vibrant hues. Spring/Summer is shaping up as the ticket for women who like to look pretty.

The Spring collection by the Badgley Mischka boys seems inspired by the 1920s French Rivera of “Tender is the Night” – beads, fringe, champagne-soaked nights. They re-invented a drop- waist flapper dress in blush tulle and satin. In another reference to their inspiration, the designers studded a halter-neck sleeveless dress with crystals in a geometric Art Deco style. The pair said they were taken with “the way that this decade’s clothes were put together and polished, yet didn’t grab the body.” Grabbing delicately at the body and in a more modern vein, there’s an above the knee, spaghetti strapped, chiffon-floaty design, white to the hips and then morphing into a tender leaf green. Their strapless dress of polished cotton printed in boldly patterned blue and white is as fresh and crisp as a spring morning.

Giles Mendel cited the French photographer Guy Bourdin, master of erotic innuendo, as his touchstone. In his romantic nod to spring, Mendel couldn’t resist a painted flower here and a lace insert there. Some of his strongest looks, however, are his fresh basics, among them a sandy-hued, sleeveless, casually belted dress, cut just above the knee with patch-pockets top and bottom, a modern twist on the classic shirt dress.

Lavish is the word for the fabrics Carolina Herrera chose for her Spring/Summer collection. Last year she cited Edvard Munch as her inspiration. This season it’s the interiors illustrator Jeremiah Goodman, among whose clients were Pauline de Rothschild and Diana Vreeland - thus luxe is the touchstone here. Herrera’s heart is in her evening wear. She offers a short and sweet all-white design: an above the knee white skirt worn with a cotton T and topped with a sequined jacket splashed with champagne flowers.

She is nothing if not a savvy businesswoman, but for Spring, Diane von Furstenberg has pleasure in mind. She says it is about “the fantasy of escaping to exotic islands and the wilder shores of love.” Indeed. Her menagerie of print offerings is well-represented in a jaunty black flowers-on-cream dress, swingy skirt and head gypsey-wrapped in the same whimsical fabric.

The fast route to a successful Spring/Summer Pucci show: book a flight to Capri. That’s where, after all, the island paradise most closely associated with this print house was born exactly 60 years ago. One Pucci look this season that effectively channels Capri is a blazingly bright number in citrus-colored tangerine. Pucci avoids sugar-shock, however, in his elegantly cut Bermuda shorts paired with a flowing blouse punctuated with fuschia and slipping sexily off one shoulder. Sizzling as Capri itself!

This season in Milan, it took Versace to get hold of drapey, goddessy dressing and make it look hot, easy and believable. Donatella shows beautifully constructed silk jersey dresses – from short togas to open-backed draped shifts in a rainbow of colors, each piece gorgeous in its own right. One of her more casual designs: shorter than Bermuda, toast-colored shorts . The ample cut and fine tailoring saves them from looking inelegant. She tops the shorts by echoing spring’s theme and going completely printastic! A billowing silk blouse, turquoise slashes slithering around it, puts this look firmly in style for Spring/Summer ’08.

Looking at some Virgina Slims’ advertising of the late 70s and early 80s inspires the Michael Kors collection. “There was something about those women that was very sexy but sporty at the same time,” he explains. Kind of like the Kors woman. Come springtime, she’ll need clothes for lunch at the club, cocktails, cruises and galas too. Kors had plenty of suggestions, and one look that seems designed for a Maidstone lunch – impeccably cut white pants worn with a pristine sleeveless greige, double-breasted top ending at the hips and circled with a narrow gold belt. He accessorizes this with an insouciant wide-brimmed hat, large shades and gold jewelry.

Frida Giannini’s Gucci Spring/Summer designs picks up on some of the things going around this season – the fifties big-skirted silhouette, a bit of toga dressing, patent-leather accessories, and yes, ubiquitous prints. One sure stand-out: a short-sleeved, v-neck dress, gently flowing skirt just to the knee, On white ground, Gucci splashes it with a black and red geometric design, a print that pulses and appears, at any moment, to leap off the dress. She pairs it with short black gloves, big black patent bag and red peep-toe pumps. Ah yes, Spring is here!

COLD REMEDIES

Getting Comfortable in your Skin!
By Barbara Barton Sloane
The mercury is dipping, the wind is whipping, and your skin is getting drier, flakier and more uncomfortable by the day. Besides a cup of comforting hot chocolate to the take the chill off, here are some other rich and creamy suggestions - your defense against weather that’s frightful!

The part of the body most exposed and one that we can’t put a glove on: the face. Three facial creams that protect the skin with luxe and exotic emollients: Estee Lauder’s Revitalizing Comfort Cream (1.7 fl. oz., $115). Reishi mushroom, wolfberry and ginseng extracts lock in moisture, help skin boost collagen and protect against cold. Comfort Cream feels light, smooth and, yes, comforting when applied. Shiseido’s Bio-Performance Advanced Super Revitalizer (1.7 fl. oz, $70) offers the latest advances in revitalization and protection against the environment and contains glycerin and squalene to smooth and soften. If you prefer to glow as you go, Kiehl’s Since 185l has Ultimate Facial Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 (2.5 fl.oz., $24.50). It comes in 3 shades, Light, Medium and Dark, and feels light and fresh on the skin. It contains extracts of chamomile to soothe and royal jelly to hydrate.

We can put gloves on our hands, but admit it, we sometimes forget. So for those gloveless days, there’s Kiehl’s Strengthening Hand Salve (2.5 oz. tube, $12.50) that soothes, hydrates and protects. The formula contains a blend of botanical oils as well as natural wax derived from olive oil. It is rich, quickly absorbed, and offers all-day “glove-like” protection from the elements. Shiseido’s Benefiance Protective Hand Revitalizer SPF 8 (2.6 oz., $37) is a hand treatment with bio-hyalauronic acid to deliver moisture, keeping the hands soft and supple. An effective way to combat “sandpaper hands” is with Estee Lauder’s Re-Nutrive Intensive Smoothing Hand Crème, (3.4 oz., $45). It’s non-greasy and is effective even after multiple hand washings. It contains Australian bois oil to prevent dehydration, green tea, a potent anti-oxidant and Chinese spike moss, to quell irritation.

Want to stay winter-kissable? Give those dry, cracked lips a slick of Kiehl’s Lip Balm SPF 4 (0.5 fl.oz. $8.50). It staves off winter’s drying effects and
comes in pear, cranberry and mint flavors. Your lips will be not only kissable but will taste delicious! Shiseido’s Full Correction Lip Treatment
(15 ml, $35) retextures and hydrates. It is waterproof and contains marine collagen to plump and keep lips ultra-moist.

For over-all body care, slather on Avon’s Skin So Soft (8.4 fl. oz., $8.50). This lotion is available in three fragrances, each of which contains natural ingredients to provide a benefit to the skin: Soft & Sensual contains almond extract for softening, Soft & Nourish with Jojoba Oil to nourish, and Soft & Replenish, containing vitamins and antioxidants to condition the skin.

Men, there’s help for you, too. A line dedicated to men’s skin care is Zirh and they offer two moisturizers which seem tailor-made for now, whether you’re walking to the train station, shoveling snow, or occupied with something more pleasurable like skiing or jogging. Protect (3.4 oz., $28) is a daily moisturizer that is ultra-light and fights the negative effects of cold, sun damage and dryness. It contains pine bark antioxidants that improve skin texture and elasticity. Defend Face Moisturizer with SPF 15 (3.4 oz., $29) contains Vitamin E to retain moisture, pine bark extract to purify and avocado oil to nourish and condition. Stepping up to the plate, we have a new men’s line: Derek Jeter Driven Skin Care. His line is available through Avon, and his Driven Moisturizer with SPF 15 (1.7 fl. oz., $15) is a hypoallergenic, lightweight lotion with the added bonus of broad spectrum sun protection.

Drink Your Way to Skin Health
Cheers! Green and black teas have been shown to prevent skin cancer in mice (whether they’re ingested or applied in extract form to the skin). Now, a new study confirms this link in people. Studies conducted by the Dartmouth Medical School show that daily tea consumption was associated with a 20 to 30 percent decrease in skin cancer. Both green and black teas contain anti-oxidants that help fight UV-induced damage. Now that is something to cheer about! Head to toe, inside and out, these products have you covered. Now, go forth and enjoy winter. We’ve only got a few more months of it (we hope!).

Where to Buy:
Estee Lauder: Fine department and specialty stores nationwide
Avon: Call 1-800-FOR-AVON or online at avon.com
Kiehl’s Since 1851: 109 Third Ave, NYC, 154 Columbus Ave, NYC or kiehls.com
Zirh: Sephora, Bloomingdale’s, Zirh.com, Sephora.com
Shiseido: Fine department and specialty stores nationwide

TUNISIA - Timeless and Contemporary

Barbara Barton Sloane

The atmosphere in the vast, cream-colored marble lobby of the Khamsa Hotel in the Tunis suburb of Gammarth fairly crackles with energy, suspense and anticipation. Upwards of 200 attractive, business-attired 20-something men and women sit at low tables that ring the lobby, drinking coffee, smoking cigarettes or standing in small groups near the door to a meeting room. Waiting. They have come to a recruiting session hoping to be hired by one of the several airline companies conducting interviews here. Interviews over, now all that remains is to hear the words: “you’re hired!”

I asked if I could join a group of four young women huddled anxiously together on a sofa. They were uniformly dark-eyed, pretty, and two of the gals sported perky pony tails. They were receptive to my questions about their interviews and chances of being hired. Ashraf, slender, soft-spoken and pert in a trim navy pants suit, explained: “We are here because this is a big opportunity for us. We do not have so many chances for jobs. To become a flight attendant for Qatar Airlines would be great!” I wished them good luck, and joined three young men, smoking and feigning an air of indifference. Once we began talking, however, each echoed the young women’s enthusiasm and hopes of landing a job. As I emerged from the dining room a few hours later, there they still were. The waiting for results continued long into the evening.

These young people, bright, attractive and eager to be a part of the global scene are a sure symbol of Tunisia today. This tiny country, squeezed between two very large ones – Algeria to the west and Libya to the east - is, like its neighbors, decidedly Arab and Muslim yet differs emphatically, being secular, with both feet planted solidly in the 21st Century. Since Tunisia’s independence from France, it has had two leaders, Presidents Bourguiba and Ben Ali, both strongly committed to insuring that their country, while situated in the heart of Islamic North Africa, remains secular and Eurocentric.

In the world we live in today, we must choose our travel wisely. We pay close attention to government alerts and before we go, we want to make sure that our destination will be welcoming and safe. Tunisia is that and more. It
stands alone among Arab countries with a message that comes across loud and clear: “Come visit us. You are welcome here!”

Having never visited Tunisia before, I was thrilled to receive an invitation to spend a week there with a colleague. I did a bit of pre-trip research and learned that Tunisia was once the center of the ancient Carthaginian civilization that was ultimately defeated by the Roman Empire. In 1883, the French made the country a protectorate. Then, under the leadership of Habib Bourguiba, Tunisia was granted its independence in 1956. France today still has a strong presence here. As our university professor cum guide explains: “Over 1,000 French companies do business with us and Air France operates several flights each day to Tunis and other cities. Also, most of us are bi-lingual, speaking both Arabic and French.” Indeed, Tunisia’s different facets constitute a frontline territory between Europe and Africa, North and South, East and West, the desert and the sea.

Tunisia has not experienced the levels of political violence as in neighboring Algeria, although it hasn’t escaped some random terrorist attacks, generally accredited to the al-Qaeda network. That said, Tunisia is a liberal, tolerant society and most Tunisians are quite relaxed about their faith.

Women in Tunisia
Conditions for women in Tunisia are better than just about anywhere in the Islamic world. President Bourguiba was a staunch supporter of women’s rights. He banned polygamy and ended divorce by renunciation; he placed restrictions on the tradition of arranged marriages and gave women the right to refuse a proposal. Bourguiba regarded the veil worn by Muslim women as demeaning and banned it from schools. This is not to say that you don’t see countless women still covering their heads with a scarf - jeans, backpacks and headscarves abound. Tunisia is now seen by many as something of a model of how a moderate, secular and relatively open Arab state can resist fundamentalism.

Medina Shopping
Our first day of sightseeing took us to the capital city of Tunis and its old town medina, ancient and intriguing. The medina is enclosed by ramparts
and gates, and as we entered, we stepped back in time. Here we found labyrinths of light and shadow criss-crossed with lanes and alleys. Amid the
hum and buzz of vendors hawking their wares, there was the constant, tinny sound of metalworkers hammering intricate designs on brass, and permeating all, the sweet, musky smell of incense. We seemed to walk forever and made sure we stayed very close to our guide because to lose him meant we might never find our way out of this maze.

The shops’ offerings were appealing, well-displayed and well-made, from skull caps in black or white knit (I bought one of each) to carved wooden bowls to baubles strung together to make bold, bright necklaces. We traipsed down every lane and everywhere we looked there were new things to buy! The essential oils were particularly beguiling, evoking the exact scent of each flower, and the nice part, they came in roll-on containers and were about $4 US. There were bins brimming with spices in colors of yellow, green and red and candles of every size and shape. You will certainly find exotic gifts here to bring home and it will be easy on the wallet – provided you bargain with the shopkeeper, and, of course, bargaining is part of the fun and it is expected! The “turquoise” large bauble necklace I bought was a bargain. The vendor shaved off a dollar or two. He and I both ended up with a price we were happy with. Win-Win. The medina is a pulsing, living thing, a place of indefinable charm and mystery. This bazaar differed from most others in that the atmosphere was happy and non-aggressive. You will feel comfortable here.

White and Blue and Beautiful All Over
We left the narrow, close confines of the medina for the fresh air of Sidi Bou Said, the elegant and chic resort by the sea. There we found bright white, blue-trimmed villas with fuchsia bougainvillea spilling from terraces. At a sidewalk café perched on a hill with steep terraces set spectacularly on the cliffs and overlooking the gulf below, we sat on kilim covered banquettes and watched men seriously absorbed in smoking their chicas (water pipes). We drank espresso so strong it had a real jolt and ate delicious doughnuts sweetened with honey called boubalouni. Sidi Bou Said is a tourist haven yet even on a summer evening, you can have it to yourself by wandering through the silent backstreets. From our vantage point, we looked across the cliff tops to a monastic fortress and lighthouse built in the early years of Arab rule. Dar Ennejma Ezzahra is
our next stop in Sidi. It is the French Baron d’Erlanger’s monumental and beautiful folly which was built between 1912 and 1922, its architecture a mixture of Tunisian and Romantic Orientalism. This edifice is now home to the Centre of Arab and Mediterranean Music and we saw stunning musical instruments through the ages, a collection of cultural heritage worthy of both study and preservation.

Power to the Palm Tree
The city of Hammamet on the Cap Bon peninsula is 40 miles southeast of Tunis and is rightly called Tunisia’s garden resort. The land abounds with eucalyptus and citrus trees and flowering shrubs. A major expansion has taken place within the last five years causing the government to enact a local law prohibiting hotels built higher than the tallest surrounding palm tree. This has not, however, stopped Hammamet from expanding horizontally with hotels rimming the seashore in each direction as far as the eye can see. In fact, “Las Vegas by the Mediterranean” came quickly to mind. To further this image, the hotels all vie for guests by offering elaborate nightly entertainment and 70’s-style discos. By day, there’s lots to occupy you: two major golf courses, para-sailing, windsurfing or just hanging around the hotel pool, and in summer, Hammamet is the site of Tunisia’s annual cultural festival.

Before leaving Hammamet, our guide told us of a renowned pastry shop here that makes just one thing: makrud, a tiny, triangular-shaped envelope of dough filled with dates or almonds. Although makrud can be purchased throughout Tunisia, this place is known to produce the best. Pulling up to the shop, we found people standing 5 deep at the counter buying boxes of the pastry. We were given a sample and decided on the spot that we must take some home. It tasted kind of like baklava and was delicious. For about $2.50 we bought a box that must have contained at least 2-3 pounds of makrud, enough to share with friends and family – and then some. I think we’ll still be eating this goodie through Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Ruined Beauty
We were looking forward to our visit to Carthage and its acres of Roman ruins. In its day, Carthage was a thriving maritime center that became the
third largest city in the Roman Empire, before being destroyed by Arab invaders from the east in 692 a.d. Virgil wrote of the ancient port of Carthage in the first century b.c. and it has forever more been suffused in a legendary aura of romance, power and decline. This is Tunisia’s best-known archeological site and its ruins are scattered over a very large area. To tour it completely you’ll need a full day. We had only a few hours to walk amid the pillars and statues, some almost wholly intact and preserved but many standing only a little above ground level. Still, if you approach Carthage with some imagination and a willingness to be impressed, it has a good deal to offer. I was mesmerized by a marble statue of a young woman executed perfectly, her eyes gazing wistfully into the distance, the look on her face virginal and sweet, and the robe that she wore flowing about her feet so realistically that it appeared to be stirred by a warm breeze that just then wafted through the cypress trees.

The Holy City
That would be Kairouan, a three hour drive from Tunis. This city is famous for its Great Mosque and is considered the most important religious site in the country. “What a hell of a place to put a holy city” wrote The Times’ military correspondent in 1939, complaining about the heat. Kairouan, because it is situated inland from the tempering breeze of the Mediterranean, can get incredibly hot in summer. In October, we had a comfortable 70-75 degrees, weather made for café sitting and observing the lively street scene which enfolded about us. Robed men and head-covered women bustled about, donkeys pulled carts laden with twigs and branches, shepherds by the roadside guided their flocks with staffs and there sprawled out before us, the awe-inspiring, sand-colored Great Mosque. Surrounding this vast, several football fields-large site were the ubiquitous vendors. Here their specialty is carpets. Kairouan is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is Islam’s fourth most holy center. You may visit certain parts of this monument but be aware that the mosque’s prayer-hall is closed to non-Muslims.

The Tip of North Africa
As our Tunisian tour came to an end, we decided to head toward the northernmost part of the country, Bizerte. Driving a couple of hours from our Tunis base, we came to the “untouched, true” Tunisia, if you will. The land here is agricultural with fertile fields growing wheat and barley.
Vineyards and olive groves abound. We passed through dusty villages with kids playing in the rubble and, however small the town, there was always a table set up outside a storefront where men sat, drank tea and smoked – and they were never, ever joined by their women!

Enroute to Bizerte, we get a sense of a definite shift – in people, in traditions, in the way of life. We stop at Utique, a small town dating from 1105 b.c., affording us our finest opportunity to observe the aboriginal people, Berbers. Their ethnic dress is a riot of colors: reds, yellows, purples, the women in long, flowing skirts, heads wrapped in bright, gauzy scarves, wrists jangling with layer upon layer of gold bracelets. The men wear dark colored robes flowing to the ground, the traditional djallabiyya.

In Bizerte, we found a port city known not as much for resort as for industry. However, this place is definitely worth a visit, as it has a monumental heritage covering centuries of strategic importance and is still very much the preserve of Tunisians. We visited Bizert’s Kasbah with its massive walls and on top, a promenade where we had a view of the port - brightly colored boats and fishermen stringing their large, lacy nets. We explored the Old Town with hidden passages, arches and walls painted in pretty pastel shades.

On our way back to Tunis, we made a stop at Raf Raf, about 18 miles southeast of Bizerte. The beach here is surprisingly undeveloped and private. We stood on a cliff top looking towards Cap Farina glistening in the sun, the waves crashing below us – a pure and peaceful moment. The beach is an almost endless curve of white sand backed by dunes, forest and sloping fields of fig, vines and rustling cane. We were told that even on weekends when this beach is very populated, it’s easy to find one’s own secluded cove and escape the crowds.

The Bardo Museum
We saved one of the highlights of our trip for the last day when we visited the Bardo Museum in Tunis. Housed in the former royal palace of the Bey, this museum has the largest collection of Roman mosaics in the world. The building itself is spectacular, built up over the centuries and surrounded by gardens full of Roman and Punic statues. The mosaics are splendid and awe-inspiring. Viewing them so bright and vivid is like looking through an
album of color snapshots. These mosaics offer a direct and beautiful visual record of what was considered important by this extraordinarily powerful civilization. The collection is too vast to take in on a single visit but even a glimpse of some of the designs will flesh out a picture of Roman life and times. Two artworks that I think back on with a smile: one, a glorious rendering of a scene from Homer’s Odyssey where Odysseus sails past the Island of Sirens, and his men, to prevent temptation, are all tied to masts. The more things change…. The other, in one of the fresco rooms, among the rare surviving fragments - a wall painting depicting a bottle of wine wrapped in straw, a bag full of eggs and a leg of lamb. Ah, the good life!

Strangers into Friends
Our guide summed up the Tunisian experience very well: “Here in Tunisia, one kills four birds with one stone. You have a country that is Arabic yet European; you are in Africa and here you can experience the wonders of the Islamic world.” He went on to explain: “Tunisians are a liberal people and the idea welcoming strangers is a centuries-old tradition. It is a cosmopolitan country which offers exploration of an historic and exotic land.” When we arrived the Tunisian people were but strangers. We leave with strangers becoming friends. Tunisia welcomes you.

If You Go:
Tunisian Tourism Office
1515 Massachusetts Avenue
Washington DC 20005
Tel: 202- 466-2546
E: tourism@tunisiaguide.com

The Tunisian Cultural & Information Center USA
168 Madison Avenue
NY NY 10016
Tel: 212-991-9933
Director: Naima Remadi
E: director@tunisiancenterusa.com

Corinthia Khamsa Hotel
Les Cites de Carthage-Gammarth-Tunisie
Tel: 216-71 91 11 00
E: commercial.corinthia@planet.tn

"SPARKLE PLENTY!"

Get Ready to Shine for the Holidays
Barbara Barton Sloane

Festive dinners, receptions, concerts, theatre and yes, the dreaded office party. You’ve waited all year to break out those flashing Christmas tree earrings, so ready, set: Glow!

Two designs from Carolina Herrera’s Winter/Holiday season are stand-outs. The designer has used an Edvard Munch painting to inspire her palette. She offers a dress of shiny silver fabric stopping just short of the knee, the neckline a large key-hole that dips almost to the waist. It is paired with this season’s “must-wear”- black tights. Another, a sweetheart strapless number, bell skirted, the fabric streaked boldly with black, champagne and red. The full skirt features deep patch pockets encrusted with shiny colored stones and worn with, you guessed it, black tights. Knee-high black leather boots complete the look.

Think luxe and thoughts inevitably turn to Bottega Veneta. Tomas Maier defines true style this way: “Clothes are a means of expression, not an end in themselves.” Amen. What he offers up are fashions for the woman who looks like a woman: curvaceous, individualistic and beautifully grown up. His holiday look: a stunning black column topped with flesh-colored crepe chiffon. Also, a girly yet sophisticated black dress, short, cap-sleeved, with five layers of chiffon comprising the skirt, striking just the right note for a festive party and making a powerful statement in just one word: Fabulous! For sheer, icy coolness, there’s a white satin design, full skirt stopping at the knee, the neckline a voluminous cowl, and the sleeves cut at ¾, full and floaty.

Luca Orlandi of Luca Luca likes glitz, from filling his fashion show’s front row with the likes of Carmen Electra, Petra Nemcova and Amber Tamblyn to his Winter/Holiday collection which is chock-full of metallica. He worked glitz again and again in all manner of sequins, Lurex and iridescent silk. Orlandi shows a pretty white sequined top and a shiny, above the knee white skirt. He surprises us by pairing this with sheer black legs. One exception to shine but a sure holiday stunner: his bright red, sleeveless knit top, a small frill around the neck, and a full, swingy skirt to the knee covered with over-sized red flowers. Not for a shrinking violet!

J. Mendel. Ahh, J. Mendel. Can it get any more “red carpet” than this? Giles Mendel tells us that “this collection is not about colors but textures.” Thus, he’s restricted his palette to ivory, slate and “blacks of many shades.” One heart-stopping example: a closely-cut, just below the knee black crepe dress, the sleeves long, tight and sheer, the top see-through black net, all except for two small panels of black crepe that rise from the waist to the neck, just wide enough to cover the bare essentials. Perhaps this is not the best choice for the office party. Otherwise, go for it! Guaranteed, you’ll be a stand-out.

At Badgley Mischka, the boys’ Winter/Holiday is inspired a bit by Wuthering Heights with a moody, platinum gray color scheme and a bit by India’s jeweled embroideries in their evening dresses. Still, a few of the more understated sparklers stood out. There’s a festive strapless mid-thigh design, black flower-patterned lace over pink satin. Direct and to the point. The point? You’re working it!!

Winter/Holiday for Stella McCartney’s show was unpretentious and playful. There were knits, cardigans and jumpsuits. It wasn’t all lighthearted, however. If you want to be noticed, go with her bubble-gum pink dress with tiny, spaghetti straps, short, short, with a flirty flamenco flounce crawling up one side of the skirt. Count on McCartney to bring on the charm and have everyone asking “who’s that girl?”

Speaking of girls, that “forever-girl”, Betsey Johnson, she of the cartwheel down the runway to close each of her shows, had her prototypical sex-bomb baby models stride the catwalk this season. One wore an irresistible, below the knee champagne satin confection, thin straps, with three huge satin roses cascading down the skirt. Betsey, true to form, letting her playfulness shine through.

Marc Jacobs, with his surfeit of cool, has designed a number that is the be- all and end-all fantasy for the most important event you’ll attend this holiday season. It is a teal blue velvet gown falling unencumbered to the floor, a wide strap of darker teal satin on one shoulder and a large bow of the same
sumptuous fabric covering the décolletage. Over the top? Not really. If not at this happy time of the year, then when? Gals, it’s your time to shine!

"Long Day's Journey Into Night"

Norway - Land of the Midnight Sun
by Barbara Barton Sloane

The sun never takes a break here in northern Norway. The country, called “the world’s top destination” by National Geographic Traveler Magazine, has always been known as “the Land of the Midnight Sun” and its light never fails to inspire.

I feel inspired right now as I recline on a deck chair gazing up into a ghostly pale sky studded with dark, brooding clouds and surrounded by majestic gray cliffs. Although it seems like midday, it’s actually 10:00 at night! I am aboard the MS Nordlys on its Coastal Voyage cruise. Webster says that “cruising” means “moving along in an unhurried or unconcerned fashion.” Exactly the way I prefer to navigate. I’m there!

I am with a group of 8 companions, and we will travel south from Kirkenes near the northern-most point on the continent to Bergen. Along the way, we will stop at many ports, each town or city unique in its landscape, traditions and way of life. To begin our journey, we fly to Oslo and then on to the top of the world, Kirkenes, to board our ship. Before leaving Oslo, we take a tour of Norway’s capital city. Formerly called Kristiania, the royal family lives here sans fanfare on Oslo’s best-known street, Karl Johan.

Small enough to be intimate, squeaky clean Oslo offers world-class dining and appealing attractions, including countless parks and recreation areas. We take a stroll along the very bridge which was the inspiration for Edvard Munch’s famous painting “The Scream.” A large and imposing modern white building has just been built which will open its doors in early 2008 – the Oslo Opera House. As the first opera house in Oslo, its opening is awaited with great anticipation. There are some 45,000 students in Oslo, so you can count on finding trendy boutiques, good music and clubs as well as displays of Norwegian design, important collections of the explorers Amundsen and Heyerdahl, the Munch Museum, and the Vigeland Sculpture Park, a not-to-be missed experience. The park covers an area of 80 acres featuring 212 bronze and granite sculptures created by Gustav Vigeland. These works of art are divided into six sections, each part displaying sculptures depicting life’s stages from birth to old age. Walking through this park is a moving and poignant experience.

A two-hour flight brings us to Kirkenes, a city lying just 6.2 miles from the Russian border. It is exciting to be here, and even more exciting to see before us the beautiful MS Nordlys in its entire white, red and black splendor.
The gangplank lowers, spirits soar, and our six day, five night fjord cruise is about to begin.

A little information about our ship: It is considered a “working vessel” as it conveys cargo to 34 ports of call all year round. This does not mean, though, that luxury or comfort are sacrificed aboard the MS Nordlys, as we are about to find out. To make our voyage all the more interesting, there are several land-based tours and excursion opportunities during the sail and each port visit is unique, differing in landscape, architecture, food and traditions.

Once on board, we rush to check out our cabins. They are small, as cabins on ships typically are, but our porthole looking out to the open sea staves off any feelings of claustrophobia. The bathroom is doll-sized. Our miniature shower is hard against a tiny sink, and at first I can’t imagine how to make this work. As it turns out, it is entirely adequate and functional. After all, when in a Lilliputian environment, think small!

Salute to the Sun
Four hours after departing, we arrive at our first port: Vardo. We clamor off ship and jump into a van which takes us to visit the Vardohus Fortress, built in the mid-18th Century for a Danish king. Today, only four soldiers and one commanding officer hold down this fort. There they execute a special salute that is done nowhere else in the world. On the 21st of January, when, after two months of darkness the sun can be seen once more above the horizon, the soldiers salute and kids get the day off from school. Sun-Day!

Breakfast on the Roof of Europe
The next morning at 5:45 a.m. we’re bright-eyed while most passengers are still sleeping soundly. We arrive in Honningsvag, and debark to board a bus to the North Cape Exhibition Center in West Finnmark. A reward for rising so early: we have the very special privilege of breakfasting 1,000 feet
above the churning Arctic Ocean with dazzling sunlight dancing across the horizon. We view a film about life on the North Cape throughout all four seasons. The morning is crisp, the sky a piercing blue, and the air sparkling and fresher than our citified lungs have ever known.

We hike up a rocky path leading to the Oscar Memorial, a stone monument raised by King Oscar II of the Union of Norway and Sweden in 1873 to mark the Union’s northernmost border. Here, too, we find a monument created in 1989 by seven children from different parts of the world to symbolize cooperation, friendship, hope and joy across all borders. Towering above the entire area, a mammoth globe, the symbol of this dramatic land, the North Cape.

What Makes Sami Run
One of the neatest things about North Cape – its reindeer. Wherever one looks, it’s wall to wall reindeer grazing in herds, their impressive antlers touching the ground. These surprisingly small animals climb steep, craggy rocks as surefooted as mountain goats. And, where there are reindeer, there must be –no, not Santa but Sami! The Sami are an ancient people whose main source of existence are the reindeer. They keep herds of them, and make use of every single part of this animal. The site called Salen is where we find the traditional Sami goahti (a turf hut or earthen lodge), constructed just as they have been building shelters since time immemorial. The Sami serve their traditional delicacies: reindeer meat, smoked fish and local cloudberries. I find myself longing for the divine repast I know awaits me onboard ship. But before we depart, I have the chance to get up-close with my own personal “Rudolf”. Petting his head makes me think Christmas can’t be far behind!

Magical Mystery Tour
We arrive at the port of Tromso, known as the “Paris of the North” near midnight. But go to bed? Not on your life! Outside, it’s still twilight so we decide to do a walk-about in this, the largest town on the North Cape. Tromso, quaint, bathed in a pearly light, is magical. Back on board, we’re
too jazzed to think of sleep just yet so we decide to have a nightcap. The Nordlys has on-going entertainment in its nightclub. Tonight, it’s a charming gentleman, a kind of jack of all instruments, who accompanies
himself while singing Willie Nelson and Johnny Cash tunes. There’s also a dance floor, and despite the late hour, we give it a whirl. Returning to my room, I can’t resist a last peek at the beauty just outside my porthole. We glide silently by countless tiny islands in the icy, slate gray water and the gentle motion of our ship leads to a deep and peaceful sleep.

Our next port is Harstad and our land tour here takes us to the Trondenes peninsula, a medieval Viking region. This was a military area during World War II and some of the barracks can still be seen by the lake. In the Trondenes Museum, we view church sculptures from the 16th Century and other ancient artifacts. We visit the Trondenes Church which dates from 1250 and was, at the time, the most important Roman Catholic church in northern Norway. The resident priest, an affable young man, conducts a brief service for us and then leads us in “Praise to the Lord”, one of my favorite hymns.

O Captain, My Captain
Now we head southeast, seemingly straight for a wall of mountain and ahead a majestic sight: the narrow Trollfjord where only one ship can pass at a time. But, not to worry. We are in the hands of our experienced Captain and he steers us skillfully through a lake that fills with chunks of ice even in summer. Sky high cliffs with their sheer sides seem to pose a permanent threat of rock falls. Our Captain reassures us that the Trolls sleep for 1,000 years after their midday nap and before they start throwing stones at the ship!

Jonathan Livingston & Friends
Once through the Trollfjord, we leave our ship through an underground passage to immediately step aboard a boat, the Sea Eagle Safari. This is one of the highlights of our voyage. Happily, the crew on the Safari has thought of everything. It is chilly so they give us warm jumpsuits to keep us toasty. For those that are game, there’s a bucket with fish to hand out. The aggressive seagulls swoop down and grab fish from our hands! We’re on a White-Tailed Sea Eagle watch, and we are not disappointed. One of the crew yells “there!” and soaring majestically above us two beautiful birds with massive wing spread. They glide and dip, and although they don’t come close enough to take the fish we’re proffering, they pierce the water gracefully and come up with their catch. After this bout of sheer excitement and thrill, we return to the Nordlys tired but happy.

Mmmm, Dried Cod
Early evening, we come to Svolvaer in the beautiful Lofoten Islands, and visit the fishing village of Henningsvaer. There are red and gold cabins,
white sand beaches and a countryside dotted with wooden racks upon which the fishermen hang cod to dry throughout the winter. In spring, when the dried cod resembles small gray planks of wood, it is shipped world-wide as an edible delicacy. An acquired taste, I’m sure.

On day five, we are now in pretty Trondheim, a historic city and the original capital of Norway, founded in 997 by the Viking King Olav. By Norwegian standards, Trondheim is a large city but it has the intimate feel of a small town. We visit one of Norway’s cultural treasures, the Nidros Cathedral built over the burial place of St. Olav, the country’s patron saint. Construction of this enormous Gothic church began in 1070 and it is considered the most beautiful in Norway. Trondheim marks the last of our land excursions. Tomorrow we pull into Bergen and from here we have a stretch of open sea till morning.

Bergen. Bring Your Brolly!
As we pull into port and stand waiting for the gangplank to lower, there’s an almost palpable feeling among all the passengers: Too soon. Must we really get off now? Sadly, the World’s Most Beautiful Voyage has come to an end.

Our ship, the MS Nordlys (which means Northern Lights), is part of the Hurtigruten fleet of 15 ships which operates along the coast of Norway. The entire staff onboard has been warm and professional, eager to assist whenever the need arose. Our meals were exceptional. Breakfast and lunch were served buffet-style, and the dinners were one of the highlights of our day. We had the chance to visit with passengers at nearby tables, some who traveled with us from the start, some who joined at various ports of call -- a convivial atmosphere in an attractive setting. I enjoyed a dish to remember, the ultimate comfort food called, intriguingly, Rommegrot Og Spekemat. Doesn’t that sound mouth-watering? It is! It’s a sour cream porridge swimming in butter and eaten with smoked, cured ham. I adored Rommegrot and think of it still, but where shall I find it in Westchester?

It’s now time to bid adieu to the Nordlys. We step off to terra firma in Bergen. Three words: Bring your brolly. Due the city’s placement between high mountain peaks it rains well over 200 days of the year. No surprise, it’s raining right now!

Between rain drops we have a tour of this ancient city founded in 1070, walking through its famous fish market and through the UNESCO World Heritage house of “Brygge” (the wharf). We take a funicular to the top of Mount Floyen and have a spectacular view of narrow, cobbled streets and brightly colored wooden warehouses that huddle around the harbor below. There are fine restaurants here and I’d venture to say that one of the best, the Floien Folk Restaurant, is like none that you’ve ever experienced. It dates back centuries and is completely made of wood (www.floien.no). I’d recommend, as well, the Noboen Restaurant, very trendy, elegant and modern. (www.grannen.no).

If you plan to travel in winter your voyage will be greatly enhanced by the Northern Lights. You will experience the Polar Night and celestial displays of greens, yellows and reds that dance in the wind. In winter, you’ll also have the opportunity to see pods of Orca, have a dog sled safari, snowmobile across frozen tundra, check out ice caves in search of Polar Bear and for the very warm- blooded, you can spend a night in the Alta Igloo Ice Hotel. There are special activities geared to the winter holidays. If you choose the Northern Lights Voyage departing on December 21, you’ll enjoy a traditional Christmas with a holiday dinner and music. Imagine – hot toddies, making friends with a reindeer, carol singing under an Aurora Borealis sky! Dreams are made of this.

Planning to go?
Oslo: Clarion Hotel Royal Christiania, www.royalchristiania.no
Bergen: Neptun Hotel, www.neptunhotel.no
Norway Tourist Information: www.visitnorway.com/us
Hurtigruten Group: www.norwegiancoastalvoyage.us

URBANE PLANNING: Fall's Bold Shapes, a Blueprint for Fabulous

by Barbara Barton Sloane

If it’s classics you’re craving for fall, you’re in luck. The designers have put a new spin on retro with sculpted shapes and silhouettes a bit more streamlined. As for the volume we’ve seen in past seasons, fall’s shapes are more restrained. Looks are both strong and feminine, lady-like not with girliness but in super-chic way. That said, the question of the moment is, simply, what should we buy this season and, hopefully be able to wear for years to come.

Diane von Furstenberg’s singular focus was on dresses. At her show, we saw her signature wrap done in ruffled black taffeta that hinted of Spanish influences. Many of the dresses came with matching coats – a nod toward the designer’s sense of practicality making these outfits work on many levels.

Swingy frocks with a touch of detail were offered up by BCBG Max Azria. Raffish, magpie styles that Kate Moss and Sienna Miller favor were strutted down the runway. He showed an adorable toast-colored, double-breasted short coat with three-quarter sleeves worn with long leather gloves and cropped pants, a look bound to appeal to the BCBG customer.

Strong yet feminine was the theme of Calvin Klein’s fall presentation. There was a funnel-neck coat in lead gray, the non-color of the season, with sloping shoulders and gently curving seams to the knee. His dresses hugged every curve his models had. A particular hit was his marble-print wool-felt sheath with face-framing collar. From his White Label line, Klein showed a real winner: a simple pale peach, knee-length sheath circled loosely with a narrow black belt. So very Calvin, so eminently easy to wear and suitable for all body types.

Grown-up elegance is Giorgio Armani’s signature. However, for fall, he took this collection in a decidedly more youthful direction. It felt almost like prom night as his baby blues, Bazooka pinks and minidresses paraded down the runway. He worked his way through a teenage army of tiny frocks: A-lines, innocent baby dolls, and swingy trapezes accented with bows or crystals. Armani kept pants to the sidelines, and the few he did show were cropped and worn with abbreviated jackets.


The designs of Anne Klein have, through the years, defined American sportswear. This season marked the debut of Isabel Toledo as the designer of this brand with the lion’s-head logo. While the collection didn’t come out roaring, it did contain many solid pieces like a navy cashmere cardigan with an asymmetrical closure. Her camel robe coat was an enviable addition to anyone’s wardrobe with true staying-power.

Revisiting one of her earliest signatures, Donna Karan built fall’s collection around bodysuits. They introduced a welcome dose of ease to hourglass silhouettes in silk satin. There was an interesting interplay of matte and shine (stretch satin belts cinching wool double knits) and bright shots of chartreuse, teal and violet against black. In her DKNY line, a particularly cheery number was a cherry-red suit with Peter Pan collar and swingy mid-thigh skirt worn with black tights. Fall is all about the black leg. Whether matte or shiny, black tights are the ticket – and they make legs look great!

Now, happily, we can all start wearing our leather boots again. This season’s best are ankle-length or mid-calf in black or burnished brown leather and are definitely made for walking …. straight into fashion’s bright colors and pretty, wearable designs for Fall.