ESTONIA: A Great Little Country

by Barbara Barton Sloane

There are no distant places in Estonia, a country bordered by Finland, the Baltic Sea, Latvia and Russia. You can travel from one end of the country to the other in just four or five hours. Its small size translates to short distances so you can squeeze in lots of sightseeing and activities in a short amount of time. But make no mistake – Estonia is larger on the inside than on the outside with a vast variety of landscapes, seasons, weather and character within a few dozen miles. Yet, touring the country, I never felt crowded or claustrophobic. With a size comparable to, say, Denmark or Holland, there are many less inhabitants – a mere 1.3 million in the entire country.

Estonians have endured occupiers for the past 800 years from Teutonic knights, Danish and Swedish conquerors, Russian Tsars, German Nazis as well as the Red Army. Now independent, the country was occupied by the Soviet Union from 1944 to 1991. Tallinn, the country’s capital, is the best preserved medieval city in Europe with an original street system dating from the 13th century and houses, buildings and churches all still intact.

Everything Old is New AgainKnown as the “Pearl of the Baltics,” my introduction to Estonia was a tour of Tallinn’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a mysterious place with narrow cobblestone lanes, ancient city walls, iron street lamps, Gothic turrets and medieval markets. Built from the 13th to 16th centuries when Tallinn was a thriving member of the Hanseatic trade league, this enclosed neighborhood of colorful gabled houses, Guild buildings and hidden courtyards is the city’s biggest tourist draw. All neatly packaged within the city’s walls, its high towers give it an extra dose of fairytale charm and looming overall, the spire of the Gothic 15th century St. Olaf’s Church.

We had lunch in the renowned 13th century restaurant, Olde Hansa. Egon, our waiter, was dressed in authentic garb, and insisted that before we ate we should do a blessing, breaking a loaf of dark bread into small pieces and sprinkling it with salt. Our table was laden with aspic, olives, pickled cucumbers, berries, soft cheese, lentils, turnips, chicken and pork – truly a meal fit for – a Viking?

Finishing this bountiful repast, we were joined by a young man dressed as a medieval merchant who guided us through the town, stopping at a brewery where an elderly gentleman sat in the corner playing a haunting melody on a wheel fiddle, bringing to mind the Hurdy Gurdy man of Schubert’s Winterreise. Then off to a small museum where we listened to a group singing in Latin and playing ancient music on tambourines and drums. Finally in an old, wood-paneled coffeehouse, we warmed ourselves with espresso and steaming hot chocolate as we watched a charming vignette - a man and woman, dressed as a scintillating 1920s couple, he strumming a guitar while she, with marcelled hair and cigarette smoldering between her lips, gazed at him adoringly, evoking a flapper-era mood. This tour, traveling back in time, was an informative and entertaining timeline of Estonian history through people, music and song.

Island HoppingOne day we took a ferry to Muhu Island and from there a causeway to Saaremaa Island about 125 miles from the mainland and Estonia’s largest island. We toured Kuressaare, the capital, and that evening had dinner in the Episcopal Castle which dates back to the 13th century and is one of the best preserved castles in northern Europe. The entire meal was one huge medieval adventure, and I’m sure I’ll never experience another dinner quite like it again. Upon entering, we were greeted by the “bishop” who led us into a grand banquet hall, our only light being hundreds of flickering candles. There before us, a heavy wooden table groaning with food and so long it was hard to see the end. We were served food typical of the period: dark, thick beef soup, black bread, nuts, berries, a huge leg of lamb, bowls overflowing with barley and plates of ham, juniper cheese, jellied meat and of course ale, lots of ale! Making the meal feel authentic and great fun, we ate with wooden spoons and forks from dishes made of rough earthenware. Throughout the evening, we were serenaded with the greatest hits of the 1300s - soft music of harps and violins - putting the perfect finishing note to this culinary adventure.

Chiaroscuro VisionsWe strolled back to our hotel through a park – a winter wonderland with a silver moon lighting our way. It was very cold, the sky milky and cloudless, the air so crisp it stung our nostrils. The path was cobblestoned, glassy and smooth, so choosing to be safe I walked on snow crunching and squeaking beneath my feet. Across the park, near a frozen moat, I watched a lone man trudge along as his small dog scampered around his legs, his silhouette black against the white snow. I tried to imagine this park in summer when all would be leafy green and warm breezes. Yet, as I watched my breath form, I knew that, for me, this was the perfect time to be here.

A Nation of SongEstonia’s most famous event by far is the National Song and Dance Festival. Choral singers, 26,000 strong, perform for an audience numbering in the tens of thousands. UNESCO cites this a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity and the festival takes place every five years. Since the last was in 2009, one now must wait until 2014 to experience it again. However, not to despair. Each summer in Estonia brings countless wonderful festivals including Tallinn Old Town Days, Medieval Tallinn Festival, Black Nights Film Festival, and Jazz Festival among many others. And this year Tallinn has been designated (along with Turku, Finland) the European Capital of Culture. So, winter, summer, anytime - Estonia is a destination for all seasons.

Estonian Tourist Board
www.visitestonia.com
Flights from JFK, NY (1 stop)
Finnair, Estonian Air, SAS, LOT

LAKE PLACID LODGE

Pure Adirondacks, Pure Bliss by Barbara Barton Sloane

The sweet, intoxicating fragrance of cedar and balsam pine is the first thing that enveloped me as I entered Lake Placid Lodge. A beloved 19th century mountain camp transformed into a lodge of unparallel rustic splendor, it is located in the Tri-Lakes region of the Adirondack Mountains in Upstate New York.

Lake Placid Lodge is the jewel of the Adirondacks – clear and cold in winter, strewn with leafy islands waiting to be explored in summer. This majestic hotel was built by hand in the Arts & Crafts tradition, perfectly at home in its lakeside setting. There are thirteen sumptuous rooms and seventeen luxurious cabins at the water’s edge. The woods and water enfold the Lodge as the sun warms its wide stone porches. Each room has a fireplace at its heart and the wilderness is visible through its diamond-paned windows. Above all I found comfort and welcome wherever I went.

Beneath a blanket of fresh snow at this Relais & Chateaux property, I experienced winter at its purest. This season is a most special time as the silent, snowy forest and the frozen lake make a magical landscape to explore or to leisurely gaze at from a chair next to a warm fireplace. It doesn’t hurt that the pub is well-stocked for inclement weather pursuits: billiards, backgammon, chess and cards, as well as tempting food and drink. Chef Nathan Rich, recently of the Mandarin Oriental, works his masterful culinary skills with locally-grown products and his farm-to-table philosophy. During my three crisp, silvery days, I did a bit of snowshoeing and hiking but I must confess I spent an inordinate amount of time curled in front of a crackling bonfire, my enchanted nights warmed by its glow and sipping hot cocoa, before sinking into a cocoon of fairytale bedding.

Love is the Only Gold -Alfred, Lord Tennyson
A remedy for banishing the winter doldrums and a way to share some golden Valentine moments with your significant other, you may want to consider Lake Placid Lodge’s Valentine’s Day Special which includes, on arrival, champagne chilling in your room, daily made-to-order gourmet breakfasts served in-room, a massage for two, private dinner in the wine cellar and a guided snowshoe, cross- country or downhill skiing tour with packed boxed lunch. The three-night accommodation begins at $2,570.

Family Need a Getaway?
The Lodge is inviting guests of all ages to join in the winter fun for a special 2-night stay package between March 11th and March 26th. Some of the activities you’ll enjoy are ice skating in the Olympic Rink, an interactive experience with birds of prey, snowshoeing, sledding, S’mores, and cross-country and downhill skiing. Ski packages start at $1,300 and include your stay in a mountain view cabin or lakeside suite, lift tickets for the whole family each day, gourmet goodies to eat on the mountain, and made-to-order breakfasts daily.

Maggie May?
A large, charming Golden Retriever, Maggie, is the mistress of this gilded manor and, in fact, the Pub bears her name. Each evening at dinner, Maggie visited our table, standing at a respectful distance and staring solemnly at our food with soulful eyes. Ever the lady, after a few minutes she would either lie quietly at our feet or wander off to visit another table and repeat the performance. Maggie was also a lively companion on our walks as she’d bound ahead and out of sight, only to reappear suddenly out of the brambles, wet, bedraggled and truly worse for wear but panting with unbridled joy.

Fire on the Mountain
Five years ago, Lake Placid Lodge belied its name when, on December 15, 2005, disaster struck. An electrical fire started in an unused downstairs kitchen in the Main Lodge and swept through the historic wooden structure dating from 1882. The staff acted quickly to evacuate the building and no one was hurt –not even Steamboat, the cat. With the Main Lodge all but destroyed and the adjacent Cedar Lodge heavily damaged, there was nothing left to do but carry on and rebuild. That’s just what they did, and, amazingly, the rebuilding and renovation took less than three years. In September, 2008, the Lodge reopened. Very similar to the original buildings in structure and style, the new lodge is blessed with a number of “corrections” including modern electrical and technological updates, so despite this devastating blow, the Lake Placid Lodge has been re-created – now even better than ever!

Lake Placid 411:
www.lakeplacidlodge.com; (877)523-2700
Transportation: Driving: 5 hours from NYC
Flights: Private jets can fly directly into the Lake Placid airport
Commercial flights: fly into Adirondack Regional Airport (ADK)

BIG CHILL, TOASTY TOWN

Friendly, Frenchy Quebec! by Barbara Barton Sloane
You’re surrounded by 17th and 18th-century architecture, cobblestone streets, and encompassed by towering ramparts of a walled city. Strolling down a narrow alley, you find inviting shops - patisseries, epiceries and boulangeries. Are you in Dijon, Alsace or maybe even Paris? Mais non. You’re in a city far more accessible but replete with all the charm of La Belle France. This, friends, is Quebec!

Quebec City is predominantly French-speaking which gives it a distinctive foreign feel. It seems at once old-world and yet very much today. One can understand why Conde Nast Traveler has named it third among the nine best cities in the Americas, and twelfth in the world.

Wonderful to visit any time of the year, Quebec is at its most seductive when the city is covered with snow, its warm lights beckoning from shops, restaurants and holiday decorations. The Quebecois will tell you that perhaps the jolliest time to visit is when the city becomes one vast outdoor playground and hosts its annual Winter Carnival. It’s when the city comes alive with sub-zero merry-making, including zip lines, night parades, concerts, snow sculptures, sleigh or dogsled rides and skating.

The Quebec Winter Carnival began when the inhabitants of New France, now Quebec, had a rowdy tradition of getting together just before Lent to eat, drink and make merry. Today, this event is the biggest winter carnival in the world and is celebrated annually at the end of January until mid-February. In 2011, the dates are January 28 to February 13. The two-week bash gets a million visitors each year from all over the world. Families are everywhere with wee kids pulled along on sleds. Many Carnival-goers wear a traditional sash and the kids will definitely want one of the long red plastic trumpets that sound out constantly through the snowy streets. So, rather than fighting the crowds at a sweltering Louisiana Mardi Gras, be cool! Embrace and celebrate this frosty event just as our neighbors up north do. Most every Carnival event is outdoors so be sure to dress appropriately. The kiosks and other outlets in the city sell the Bonhomme mascot tag for $10 that gets you into most of the Carnival events.

Activities for Chasing the Chill Away
Besides Carnival, there’s lots more to see and do in Quebec. Visit Vieux-Quebec (Old Town) high on the cliffs which overlook the St. Lawrence River and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Behind its stone walls there are world-class museums, historic sites and great shopping. Nearby, be sure to see the Notre Dame de Quebec cathedral with its bell tower dating back to 1647. You can ride a funicular down to lower town and Place Royale, the oldest part of Quebec City and the site where Champlain built the first permanent settlement in New France. For a special treat,take
Can I please hear back from you in regard to membership. horse-drawn buggy through quaint streets to the Plains of Abraham, a vast, flat, snow-covered area and watch cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

DiningWinter in Quebec is cold, to be sure, but its dining scene is downright sizzling. Since 1978, the owners of Restaurant Le Saint-Armour, Jacques Fortier and Chef Jean Luc Boulay, have devoted themselves to gathering a passionate and thoughtful team in the kitchen as well as in the dining room, to turn out memorable, sumptuous meals – 48, rue Saint Ursule, www.saint-armour.com. Warm and welcoming, the award-winning Panache restaurant resides in a restored 19th-century maritime warehouse, a sophisticated blend of old and new – 10, rue Saint Antoine, www.saint-antoine.com. From the start, Au Vieux Duluth’s founders decided to offer unique dishes and generous portions of top quality food at affordable prices. The restaurant very quickly gained recognition not only for its dishes, but for its décor, ambiance and exceptional customer satisfaction – 5079, blvd. Wilfrid-Hamel, www.auvieuxduluth.com.

HotelsNo visit to Quebec is complete without checking out – and hopefully checking into – the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, the grand castle-hotel in the heart of Old Quebec. There are 618 beautifully furnished rooms, a health club and an indoor pool. Also, the Frontenac just happens to be the most photographed hotel in the world – 1, rue des Carrieres, www.fairmont.com/frontenac. For a droll, once-in-a-lifetime experience, consider The Hotel de Glace located just outside Quebec City. This crystalline snow bastion with cathedral ceilings is made entirely of…what else? Tons and tons of snow and ice. Once ensconced under a warm fur blanket, you’ll spend the night in a magical atmosphere resembling the Narnia Ice Queen’s palace and praying you won’t need a middle-of-the-night bathroom visit - 9530, rue de la Faune, www.icehotel-canada.com. You say you prefer something a bit cozier? There’s the intimate Auberge Saint-Antoine which Travel and Leisure has ranked one of America’s top small city hotels. The property links four 18th-century buildings with 300-year-old massive wooden beams and stone walls. But, not to worry. Along with the ancient comes all the modern and chic accoutrements needed to satisfy our high-tech lifestyles – 8, rue Saint-Antoine, www.saint-antoine.com.

If You Go:For more information: Quebec City Tourism, www.quebecregion.com

BETWEEN A ROCK AND A SOFT PLACE

The Boulders Resort, Carefree, Arizona
by Barbara Barton Sloane

Lizards warm themselves on gigantic granite boulders, Jack rabbits and deer make their homes amid the desert landscape, towering saguaro cacti reach for the sky, and the sun’s rays encourage wildflowers to bloom in vivid shades of magenta, gold and lavender. This is life at The Boulders today, in a place unchanged for centuries. From its environmentally sound development to world-class resort, The Boulders is a compelling destination.

Named for the 12-million-year-old granite boulder formations that dot the landscape, the resort is situated on 1,300 acres in the Sonoran Desert foothills and the terrain has been left virtually untouched to allow indigenous plant and wildlife such as saguaros, mesquite, Palo Verde trees, coyotes and deer to prosper.

I visited The Boulders recently and, as we approached, like a mirage, the resort seemed to emerge from the desert like an offspring of the ancient boulders. My accommodation was in one of the 160 guest casitas which featured hand-hewn wood-beamed ceilings, a large wood-burning fireplace, ample dressing and bathroom area, and, one of the most charming additions, my very own private patio which overlooked the sun-streaked desert. Each morning, I took my coffee and toast here and enjoyed the sight of Gambel’s quails, frisky and loquacious little birds, hopping around my table searching for crumbs while cottontail bunnies nibbled on plants among the cacti.

The Boulders carries the Southwestern motif throughout the property, with lobbies displaying Native American crafts and glass skylights and fireplaces providing warmth and light. The six restaurants on the property range from elegant to casual and feature innovative Southwestern cuisine. There are two championship golf courses renowned for their rugged beauty and breathtaking panoramas.

Not being a golfer, I quickly found my way to The Golden Door Spa. A comforting blend of Eastern and Western influences in its architectural design, healing methods, treatments and philosophies, the spa is a 33,000 sq. ft. space which still manages to feel intimate and cozy. Being surrounded by the desert, I felt my skin could use a blast of pure oxygen so I opted for the Echo Oxygen Facial which promised to nourish and revitalize every cell of the skin, pore by pore. I think it worked because I emerged with skin that was dewy, fresh and smooth as a baby’s – er- whatever.

I had a mere three days at the resort, and tried to fit in as many on-site, fun adventures as possible. I went up, up and away in a beautiful balloon and I rode a horse through desert teeming with life. I spotted two brilliant red cardinals on the bough of a spiny Ironwood tree, a pretty pale colored coyote peeked out from behind a Prickly Pear cactus, and I gazed with amazement at the spectacular architectural designs of Arizona’s state tree, the Palo Verde. The name is Spanish for green stick, and in autumn, its chlorophyll-filled branches punctuate the desert sky.

On The Boulders property, there’s a magical placed called Promise Rock, a one-of-a-kind romantic outdoor venue where fairytale weddings unfold. I was told it’s also a divine place to renew one’s vows. I had to see it! Created by nature but discovered only recently by the resort, Promise Rock opened this spring for those entering life’s most important union – marriage. The site draws upon the strength and rock-solid foundation of the surrounding boulders and the only sound I heard was that of a cascading waterfall nearby. I was particularly taken with the rock art that The Boulders commissioned of a couple holding hands, done in the style of an ancient petroglyph. The icing on the wedding cake: a “his & her” pair of saguaro cacti that presided over the venue – a lovely symbol of partnership.

The Boulders Resort is the recipient of countless awards, including Conde Nast Traveler’s “Gold List, Top Resorts of the World,” Arizona Bride Magazine’s “Best Wedding Night Hotel,” and Zagat’s “#1 Resort in the Southwest Region.”

If You Go:The Boulders Resort is located 33 miles from Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport, and transportation can be arranged in advance through the resort concierge. For more information or reservations, contact The Boulders at (866)397-6520 or (480)488-9009 or visit www.TheBoulders.com.

Photos courtesy of Sloane Photography

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BRANSON CITY!

Have Yourself an Ozark Mountain Christmas
by Barbara Barton Sloane

With dozens of star-filled Christmas music shows and a glittering array of light displays, including the one-mile Branson Area Festival of Lights drive-through, “The Live Music Show Capital of the World” kicked off its annual Ozark Mountain Christmas celebration on November 1 and it continues through December 30.

Sights, Lights and…Ducks!I had a brilliant and glowing visit to Branson, Missouri recently and experienced the most outstanding Christmas spectacular ever. We were dazzled by Branson’s star entertainers and their elaborate holiday production numbers. From the voice of “Mr. Christmas” – Andy Williams, to the Oak Ridge Boys and the rousing carols of the Twelve Irish Tenors, there’s a multitude of entertainers that showcase Branson’s Christmas spirit. For the kids, there’s a special Holiday Lights Ride the Ducks to see the sights and lights on a sing-along holiday adventure through a lighted forest of twinkling snowflakes, candy canes and holiday ornaments.

Bah? Humbug? Not Here!A place that is truly magical for the holidays is Silver Dollar City. They present a most charming production: A Dickens’ Christmas Carol, with extremely accomplished actors, singers and dancers, a production we found truly Broadway-quality. This 1880s-style theme park transforms into an evening wonderland featuring the Christmas on Main Street light and sound show, 1,000 decorated Christmas trees, a 5-storey special effects Christmas Tree, a Holiday Light Parade, festive holiday foods and over four million (you heard it right) lights!

We can Make-Believe…on the ShowboatWe took a ride on the Showboat Branson Belle, bedecked in Christmas finery, and enjoyed a rousing, fun-filled holiday show topped off with a tasty lunch. And one of the most memorable events on my Branson visit was touring the absolutely fabulous Titanic, the world’s largest Titanic museum, state-of-the-art and world-class, which was decorated with lights and holiday trimmings that recalled an elegant Christmas past.

If you still haven’t had enough Christmas lighting displays, consider touring the Branson Area Festival of Lights and the Trail of Lights at Shepherd of the Hills Homestead. Also, on the first Sunday in December, thousands of people will gather in downtown Branson to watch a Christmas parade which respects this most reverent of seasons and without a hint of commercialism.

So, you say it’s not yet Thanksgiving and the Christmas spirit has yet to hit full force. Visit Branson soon and you’re gonna feel it – big time. In fact, you may just consider it your most enchanting vacation ever. After all, Andy Williams has made a career by informing us that “It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year.” In this town, Christmas celebrations are like nowhere else on earth, and when it’s time to return home, you will leave with a little more elf in yourself and a little more jingle in your bells!

Branson 411:
Branson Lakes Area Convention and Visitors Bureau
800-214-3661
www.ExploreBranson.com

Kids Kountry
417-334-1612
www.BransonTracks.com

Ride the Ducks
417-266-7600
www.BransonDucks.com

Showboat Branson Belle
800-775-2628
www.ShowboatBransonBelle.com

Titanic Museum Attraction
800-381-7670
www.TitanicAttraction.com

Silver Dollar City
800-831-4386
www.SilverDollarCity.com

FINLAND

Land of Attractions Both Ancient and Modern
by Barbara Barton Sloane

Design should never say “Look at me.” It should always say, “Look at this.” And so it does. In 2012, Helsinki, Finland has been chosen to be the World Design Capital and true to the quote, Helsinki - indeed all of Finland - never says “Look at me,” but in its quiet restraint, dignity and joie de vivre, one is compelled to look at it all, savoring the country’s stark beauty, the artistic, cutting-edge design visible everywhere, and most especially the people of this land who make you feel most welcome.

Helsinki Highlights
This stylish, relaxed city is a dream destination for walkers as most of the important sights are conveniently situated in the city’s center. There are eighty intriguing museums here, enough to keep you busy for your entire stay and then some. One appealing feature of Helsinki’s location is that there are ferry connections to Estonia, Sweden and St. Petersburg, Russia. Visitors often plan a one or two day excursion, using Helsinki as home base.

The Design District is Helsinki’s arts and crafts-oriented neighborhood. The area is home to a wide range of designer shops, interior decorating studios, antique dealers and jewelry boutiques. While here, I visited some of the artists’ workshops and saw beauty being created right before my eyes. At a silver shop, I looked on as the designer made a lacy, filigree pendant and added the finishing touches to a heavy silver ring set with a fine piece of jade.

Market Square is lively and bustling with vendors selling everything from all kinds of berries to produce to clothing and silver jewelry. I had a pleasant morning sitting at a cafe, drinking coffee brewed strong and steaming, complimented by some fresh Finnish cloudberries, and allowing myself to be caressed by sea breezes right beyond my table.

Because you won’t have time to see all eighty of Helsinki’s museums in a single visit, may I suggest one that you must not miss: the Ateneum Museum houses the largest art collection in the country displaying Finnish art from the 1750s to the 1960s and Western art from the late 19th century to the 1950s. It also contains the very first Van Gough ever placed in a museum and it is here where you’ll view a most haunting painting titled “The Wounded Angel” by Hugo Simberg. This allegory depicts two boys transporting a blond child-angel. The lead boy trudges along dutifully, the boy in the rear gazes sullenly out at the viewer. At the time this was painted, there were many charity institutions in the very park where this procession is said to take place. The sweet, white-clothed angel, eyes bandaged, her wings drooping forlornly, gives off an air of resignation as she is carried to the Blind Girl’s School. “The Wounded Angel” was voted Finland’s national painting, and you’ll remember it long after leaving The Ateneum.

One memorable evening, I had the pleasure of attending a Jean Sebelius concert by the Tapiola Sinfonietta held at Helsinki University Hall, the very room where Sebelius began his career in 1899. Conducted by the renowned Leif Segerstam, rotund, dynamic and compelling, he lent an air of excitement to the entire concert. Segerstam is irrepressible and joyous so it was quite fun to glide along on his flourishing baton as he conducted the glorious Symphony #1 in E minor.

Porvoo Pleasures
A convenient hour’s drive east from Helsinki, Porvoo is Finland’s second oldest town, history-rich, with ancient red, wooden storehouses that line the river and testify to the city heyday as a major port for merchant ships plying the world’s oceans. High on a hill sits Porvoo’s most recognizable landmark – the Luthern Cathedral, which has dominated the town since the early 1400s. We strolled through Old Town, built on a dense labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets and alleyways and lined with colorful cottages, galleries and boutiques.

It is there that we explored the Porvoo Museum with exhibits on the town’s history, including artifacts and art. Recently opened is a fine exhibit on Porvoo’s prehistoric times and the Middle Ages. Holm House, a part of the museum, was built in 1763 and offers an opportunity to see how a wealthy merchant family lived at the end of the 18th century. Porvoo is known for its sweets so naturally we wouldn’t leave without answering the call of our sweet tooth. Locals told us to visit The Little Chocolate Factory on Church Square. True to its name, the shop was so tiny we were barely able to fit through the door. But let that deter us? I think not. We were rewarded with rich and sumptuous chocolates, a treat I’d squeeze through this door for again in a heartbeat!

Tooling Around Turku Town
This place has played a very vital role in Finnish history, being the oldest city in the country and the first capital of Finland. Founded in 1229, Turku is situated in the southwest region, the oldest inhabited area dating back 8,500 years. Fast forward to modern times: this coming year Turku will be the European Capital of Culture, together with Tallinn in Estonia.

Turku today, with its pristine countryside and nearby fabulous archipelago, provides lush and imposing sights to behold. The area is famous for its manor houses where historical figures lived and reigned, surrounded by lovely parks and gardens. We climbed up Unikankare Hill to Turku Cathedral, the heart of the Lutheran Church in Finland and the country’s national shrine, completed at the end of the 13th century. How fortunate were we that, as we stood gazing at the intricate carvings in the ceiling, the cathedral’s famed 81-stop organ, built by the Finnish organ-building company extraordinaire Veiko Virtanen, began playing. Surrounded by so much imposing beauty and the soft, musing tones of this special organ, it seemed an authentic moment drawn from medieval times - and it was magical.

FINLAND 411
IN HELSINKI IN PORVOO IN TURKU
Where to Stay
Sokos Hotels Haikko Manor Sokos Hotels
www.sokoshotels.fi www.haikko.fi www.sokoshotels.fi

Where to Dine
Kosmos Restaurant Manor House Vaakahuone
www.ravintolakosmos.fi www.haikko.fi www.vaakahuone.fi
Salutorget Restaurant
www.royalravintolat.com
Olo Restaurant
www.olo-restaurant.com

Things to Do
Suomenlinna UNESCO World Porvoo Museum Turku Cathedral
Heritage Sea Fortress www.porvoomuseum.fi www.turkucathedra.fi
www.suomenlinna.fi Lutheran Cathedral
Design Forum Finland www.porvoocathedral.fi
www.designforum.fi
Ateneum Museum
www.ateneum.fi/en
Fiskars Village has ongoing exhibits, events and a Christmas Market; it is along the route to Turku, www.fiskarsvillage.fi
Royal Line Dinner Cruises, www.royalline.fi

Finnair Airlines
www.finnair.com
Wonderful food, gracious treatment – and they’re on time!
For General Information on Finland
www.visitfinland.com

Photos courtesy of Michael Sloane Photography

A WALK ON THE WALES SIDE

A Storybook Land Come to Life
by Barbara Barton Sloane

“A weekend of warmth in store for all.” So stated a local Welsh newspaper, the article promising spring sunshine and the hottest temperatures of the year so far. Arriving in Wales in early April when it can still be chilly and rainy, this was welcome news. I’m happy that the forecast was spot-on and the sun shone every warm, cloudless day of our visit.

We flew into Heathrow and on to Padding Station. Our train ride to Cardiff, Wales’ capital, took a mere 2 ½ hours. Having not slept a wink on my flight and feeling jet-lagged, (due only to my fear of flying; the American Airlines flight was smooth, relatively short and very sweet), it was lovely to sink into BritRail’s deeply cushioned velvet seats as a waiter proffered a welcoming cup of strong coffee and a sugar bun. Comforted, we let our thoughts drift dreamily to our destination – Wales – where we knew that the special pleasures of this wee, wonderful country awaited us.

Capital Culture
We checked into the Park Plaza Hotel, Cardiff, and in short order set off to explore the town – modern, cosmopolitan and with a calendar of events to rival any major European city. In the city’s center, Cardiff Castle was originally a Roman fort. We climbed to the top of the 12th century Norman Keep. Glad we did, as it offered astounding views of the entire city. At the National Museum, there are fascinating and evocative displays of Wales throughout history. We viewed 500 years of paintings, drawings, and sculpture, one of Europe’s finest art collections.

The next day we picked up our rental car and were off to the Celtic Manor Resort, Newport, in picture-perfect Usk Valley. This resort has been selected as the host course for this year’s Ryder Cup. At their health spa, we found a perfect place to shake off any remains of jet lag with a seductive massage.

The Pits
Abergavenny is the gateway to the incomparable Brecon Beacons National Park. There’s a World Heritage Site perched high on a lofty hill in Blaenavon overlooking the valley below. This area was once the heart of the industrial revolution and is full of historic interest. At The Big Pit National Coal Museum, one can have the consummate miner experience. Now here’s the catch: you absolutely cannot be claustrophobic (that leaves out yours truly). However, my companions were gamely fitted with lamps, helmets and heavy battery-packs and accompanied by an actual miner as they descended 300 feet into a labyrinth of shafts. Emerging, they regaled me with terrifying tales of streams of rust-colored water flowing down walls which added to the dank, dark atmosphere. However, they were supremely proud of going into the pit for this seriously authentic experience – and I was glad to.. er.. experience it vicariously.

Beauty in Stone
“You will find here something you never found in books.” Cistercian Father Bernard of Clauvaux wrote these words centuries ago, and the poet Wordsworth was moved to pen his famous ode “Composed a Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey” for this edifice. Alfred Lord Tennyson wrote “Tears, Idle Tears” and it inspired more than one painting by JMW Turner. We’re talking about the sublime Tintern Abbey, situated on the banks of the River Wye. Graceful – lacy – delicate. Can one refer to a building made of stone by such words? At Tintern, Yes. It was built in 1131 as a religious house by Cistercian Monks and despite the shell of this structure being open to the skies, it remains the best-preserved medieval abbey in Wales. The chants of countless monks still echoed through the masonry as I strolled the corridors silently, respectfully, marveling at vast windows with delicate tracery and decorative details on the walls, doorways and soaring archways, all the while the Abbey captivating me with its haunting spell.

A Host of Golden Daffodils
Next day, a pastoral drive through the countryside to the town of Crickhowell called to mind a line from a Wordsworth’s poem: “When all at once I saw a crowd, a host of golden daffodils.” And so we did. We drove through narrow alleys of green hedgerows sprouting purple flowers and then: Quick! Stop the car! In the meadow, hundreds of sheep and their fluffy, white offspring. Spring is lambing time in Wales, and the ewes, with babes in tow, began to warily approach the fence, checking us out amid a cocaphony of loud, plaintive bleats. They stared intently at us and gave every indication that they would stand there passively gazing at us forever until we finally dragged ourselves away and climbed back into the car. Only then did they amble back to the field and begin grazing once more. Storybook country? Sure enough.

After a day spent at the Manor House Hotel regrouping, resting and reveling in the striking scenery of Beacons National Park, we drove to Aberporth near Cardigan, making a stop along the way at the Carreg Cennen Castle. The castle appears to spring out of legend and fairytale, astonishingly sited and seen for miles in all directions.

Wales Patron Saint
A highlight of our Welsh tour was visiting St. David’s, the smallest city in Britain, and its magnificent cathedral built in 1181 on the site of St. David’s sixth century monastery, the final resting place of its patron saint. We arrived on a bright Sunday morning just in time to hear Matins, a large choir raising celestial voices in song to the very rafters.

Live and Laugharne
The site of Wales’ most famous poet, Dylan Thomas’ home, Laugharne (pronounced “Larn”), is where he spent his last four years. It was poignant as I entered the cottage and saw everything kept just as it was when he wrote some of his greatest works. There on his desk, a jumble of papers as though he might have just gotten up to get a cup of tea (or something stronger), photographs on the walls of his wife Caitlin and his daughter Aeronwy, a well-worn velvet sofa, and a small terrace from which we gazed out on the Taf Estuary, silent, gray and seeming to envelop his cottage with a somber, lonely feel. Nearby, both his and Caitlin’s graves rest in a peaceful church cemetery. Of course, we had to visit. After a long search around grassy, flower-strewn plots, we came upon his grave. A small, simple white cross, the plainest marker in the graveyard was his, resting back to back with Caitlin’s headstone. There, propped against the cross, a fitting tribute: A half-full bottle of Jack Daniels. He did not go gentle into that good night.

Second City
Swansea. A lively city with a rich, seafaring heritage, it is a cosmopolitan example of today’s modern Wales. At the National Waterfront Museum there’s cutting-edge interactive technology and exhibits that tell the story of Welsh industry and innovation over the last 300 years. We spent our last night in Wales at Morgan’s, Swansea’s only 5-star hotel located near the city center and the stunning Mumbles and Gower coastline.

Crossed the Pond, Had a Wales of a Time
“I carry Wales inside me. I never really left” – Tom Jones. I get it. I think I’ll always carry a bit of Wales inside me, too. It is, after all, a true fairytale land. Here you find tiny, thatched-roof, ice cream-colored cottages, green valleys, winding, narrow country lanes bordered by tall, stately hedgerows, streams glinting gold and babbling through deep pine forests, little white lambs with fleece as white as snow. And how about these adorable names: Mumbles, Pontypool, Peny Park, the Wolf’s Castle, Beggar’s Reach and Rat Trap Inns, not to mention the Fairyhill Hotel in Swansea! On my journey I was charmed by a sign on a pub offering a brew called “Tippy Tup”, (drunk, perhaps from a sippy cup?). Also a notice on the side of a church advising “God Answers Knee-Mail.” And just remember when you visit and see ferocious dragons depicted all over the buildings, do not fear. The dragon is the renowned national emblem of this fairytale land. Why am I not surprised?


If You Go:
Welsh Tourist Office American Airlines
www.visitwales.com www.aa.com
BritRail Park Plaza Cardiff
www.britrail.com www.parkplaza.com
The Celtic Manor Resort Manor House Hotel
www.celtic-manor.com www.manorhotel.co.uk
The Penrallt Hotel The Grove Hotel
www.thepenrallt.co.uk www.thegrove-narberth.co.uk
Morgans
www.moranshotel.co.uk