Wednesday, November 19, 2008
by Barbara Barton Sloane
When you hear the word “cowboy,” what comes to mind? Rugged, strong, no-nonsense individual, right? So, Cowboy Poetry? Yes.
The cowboy’s work is often lonely and isolated, a cycle of hard, dirty, dangerous jobs from the spring round-up through the cattle drive, the end of the trail and the return to the ranch. Surprising as it may seem, the cowboy, as with the miner, the logger, the fisherman –has a poetry-seeking tradition, whether it’s reciting the classics or reading their own poetry or prose.
The Cowboy Poetry Gathering takes place in Elko, Nevada on January 24-31, 2009. Elko is located in the northeastern corner of the state, 230 miles from Salt Lake City and 295 miles from Reno. The Western Folklife Center, host to the Poetry Gathering, is based in town, and is dedicated to preserving the traditional culture of the American West. It presented its first Poetry Gathering 25years ago, so the 2009 event marks its Silver Anniversary.
The Lure of Cowboy Life
I visited Elko recently to learn more about the upcoming poetry event, staying at the 71 Ranch, a guest ranch for the Working Cowboy Experience. The “71” is a real cattle ranch right in the middle of cowboy country and during my stay there I had the chance to be a part of day-to-day ranch life for a truly authentic experience. I rode horseback over a small part of the ranch’s 38,000 acres, right alongside some of the 2,500 head of cattle belonging to the ranch. Being new to sitting atop a horse, I elicited a promise from my cowboy guide that my slow-poke horse would not, under any circumstances, take it into his head to run. He didn’t and I stayed astride and very happy. That evening, we had a typical cowboy dinner of ribs, baked beans, potatoes and pie. A group of us then gathered around a campfire to ward off the chill which crept in at dusk. We sang along with a cowboy who entertained us with well-known Western songs, and, feeling warm and toasty, we were very happy campers!
The next day we visited the Western Folklife Center where they explained the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering. This is a week-long celebration of life in the rural west, featuring the contemporary and traditional arts of western ranching culture. Poetry, music, dance, stories, film, photography, food – all contribute to an event that has become an annual ritual and a place of personal meaning for thousands of people. And lest you think the performers are only the “boys,” I’m happy to tell you there are a lot of authentic cowgirls who recite their poetry as well. Among performers at January’s event will be National Public Radio commentator Baxter Black, the renowned “wacko” poet whose verse has been heard by millions. During my stay in Elko, I was lucky enough to see Baxter at the Elko Convention Center, filled to capacity, and everyone enjoying his raucous performance. The organizers of the upcoming Poetry Gathering promise that “we’ll dance all night, talk all day at the Pioneer Saloon, and enjoy all the artists being celebrated!” For tickets to the January 2009 National Cowboy Poetry Gathering, go to the website: www.westernfolklife.org or order by phone: 888-880-5885.
Elko and the surrounding area has much to offer, from the beauty of the land, the Ruby Mountains called the “alps of Nevada,” to the endless prairies covered with sage brush, bright yellow rabbit grass, juniper forests and dotted with grazing Black Angus wherever you look. The sky is always bright blue, the clouds big and billowy, and the mountain goats, big horn sheep, and elk are never far away.
Among some of Elko’s fun activities: watch a saddle being made at the famed J.M. Capriola Company, see pottery done the old-fashioned way at Tuscarora Pottery School, visit one of the many casinos, check out the handicrafts of Native Americans, visit the Northeastern Nevada Museum for an in-depth exploration of Nevada’s early years with exhibits of mining, ranching, native culture and Old West history, and end the day with a delicious dinner at a Basque restaurant.
There’s a lovely little poem that I read at the Folklife Center, aptly called “A Cowboy’s Prayer:”
I thank you, Lord, that I am placed so well,
That You have made my freedom so complete
That I’m no slave of whistle, clock or bell,
Nor weak-eyed prisoner of wall and street.
Just let me live my life as I’ve begun
And give me work that’s open to the sky;
Make me a pardner of the wind and sun,
And I won’t ask a life that’s soft or high.
At the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering, you’ll hear many poems just as heartfelt and profound as this and your experience will be a happy one.
If You Go:
Western Folklife Center
Red Lion Hotel & Casino
1065 Idaho St., Elko
Star Hotel Basque Family-Style Restaurant
246 Silver St, Elko
Image courtesy of Sweet Light Photography
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
By Barbara Barton Sloane
Plumes of smoke rose heavenward from the base of Maunaloa. Because this is one of Hawaii’s very active volcanos, we were kept several hundred yards away from the site. Yet, even from a distance, the power and majesty of Maunaloa was awesome. Much about my recent trip to Hawaii’s Big Island and Maui was awe-inspiring. The islands were everything that one expects to find: tropical paradise, enveloping warmth, glistening blue sea and luxurious resorts. Badly in need of some serious R & R, I was delighted to find that the islands also offered a perfect destination for me to reconnect with nature – and with myself. Here I found a natural sanctuary to restore the soul.
On Hawaii’s Big Island, miles upon miles of untouched land contribute to its natural beauty. It’s a place of extremes – from fiery volcanoes to snow-capped mountain peaks; from acres of green pasturelands to vast ebony lava deserts; and from tropical rainforests and verdant valleys to white, gold, black and even green sand beaches. Out of 13 climatic regions on the planet, this island has all but two, Artic and Saharan. On the Big Island, whatever climate you’re craving, you’ll find it here.
For centuries, native Hawaiians have revered nature’s bounty from mauka to makai (mountain to sea) and have developed the powerful healing arts of Lomi Lomi massage using native plants in age-old practices and encouraging soul-searching through self-awareness and forgiveness. Dale Silva, co-founder of the Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Association says “without aloha – without love – for oneself, for the environment, for each other, how can you begin to heal? It all starts with aloha.” The aloha spirit is abundant here. You feel it in the sunshine that warms the sand beneath your feet, you see it in the clear ocean water, and you hear it in the gentle rain that falls in the forest.
Hibiscus flowers large as dinner plates line the lush drive to the Four Seasons Resort on the Big Island with deep green, velvet-like
lawns leading to the turquoise sea beyond. Greeted with a fragrant purple orchid lei placed around my neck by a pretty hostess and the words “welcome to the Four Seasons,” I had a hunch that I was in very good hands and that wonderful pleasures awaited me.
Chanting for Healing
Precisely at dawn the next morning, I was invited to participate in an Ocean Purifying Ceremony led by the resident ceremony leader, Daniel Akaka. As a group of us walked to the ocean, Daniel blew a conch shell to the four corners of the earth. He began a chant to clear the mind and start a new journey at daybreak. We stood in ankle-deep water as he instructed us to join hands, a symbol for inviting the people of all the lands to join us. His chant asked that we be instructed, educated and inspired as we go through life’s journey. As he offered a prayer of thanksgiving, he placed a Ti leaf (used to ward off evil spirits) around our necks and greeted us nose to nose. As we did this, we exhaled our breath in a “Ha” sound – the first sound uttered when we’re born and symbolizing the life force within each of us.
Daniel next took a bowl with small stones in it, emptied it and filed the bowl with pure water. He explained that as we go through life, we take on worries, problems, negativity. Each problem is like a stone, so to rejuvenate the soul, you have merely to turn the bowl over, let the stones drop away and allow pure water to refill the bowl. Simplistic? Maybe. I can just tell you that after this ceremony, the song “Don’t Worry, Be Happy” kept buzzing in my head and I left feeling cleansed and ready to start a fresh, new day – baggage-free.
Romance in the Air
I had dinner at the Four Seasons Pahui’a restaurant, dining en famille at a long wooden table that faced the ocean and gazing at a spectacular gold sunset as ocean breezes wafted over a tranquil blue sea. If you want a romantic setting, this is it! Soft Hawaiian ballads provided the music, tiki lamps lit the azure evening and, as the sky turned dusky, lights played on the ocean and captured creamy white caps rolling gently towards shore. As if that wasn’t enough, the food at Pahui’a was spectacular - Lobster Keahole, Dungness Crab, Sweet Waimea Corn fritters, and for dessert spice cake with sweet potato ice cream. Mother Nature herself graced the ambience of this restaurant and provided an unforgettable dining experience.
Welcome to Your Sensory Meltdown
At the Four Seasons Hualalai Sports Club & Spa, I found an oasis of sybaritic delights awaiting me. A uniquely Hawaiian spa, there is a lap pool, whirlpools, saunas, steam rooms and cold plunges - all set amidst tropical gardens. Among the Signature treatments offered: The Hualalai Experience, in which you're pampered with a Polynesian Niu (cocoanut) body scrub, a Lomi Lomi massage, and a Kane facial. I opted to experience the Cocoanut Scrub which transported me into a dream-like state. After the body polish, a warm blanket was wrapped around me and I was given a relaxing face and neck massage. The last step was an application of cocoanut milk and cococnut moisturizing lotion. My skin had never felt so silky smooth and I was beyond relaxed. My goal as I entered the spa was to be pampered, relaxed and feeling beautiful. Mission accomplished!
After checking into the Fairmont Orchid Resort, I walked down jungle-like paths lined with dramatic waterfalls leading to their Spa Without Walls, whose mission is to restore the mana (power) we hold within each of us. In a cabana at ocean’s edge, I experienced their signature Lomi Lomi massage. My masseuse used long, gliding, rhythmic movements to ease tension and relax muscles using my selection of essential oils to personalize the treatment. Mission accomplished!
One of the highlights of my stay at the Fairmont Orchid: Calley O’Neill, a true force of nature and a major attraction of this property. Calley teaches a class called Compassionate Healing Yoga. I took the class thinking it would be standard yoga filled with movements like Salute to the Sun and Downward Dog. Not so. Calley’s class is yoga for the mind, and she led us through ways to quiet the mind, rejuvenate the body, balance emotions and nurture the spirit – all in 60 minutes. The key to my being inspired, moved and feeling like a million bucks as the class ended was, quite simply, Calley herself. She is calm, centered and above all, caring. My session was mind-altering. Sound too good to be true? It isn’t.
From Chill to Sizzle
Once you leave the reverie of an Hawaiian spa and slowly re-enter the real world, you’ll find much to do on the Big Island. You can snorkel with the turtles at Kahulu’u Beach Park or see them up close and personal on the black sands of Panalu’u. Stargazing atop Mauna Kea is a truly spiritual
experience. If fishing is your thing, try catching a marlin off the Kona Coast. While on Kona, don’t forget to explore the ancient petroglyphs. Night diving with manta rays is other-worldly and a visit to a “garden in a valley on the ocean,” the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden with rain forests, waterfalls, exotic flowers, fruits and plants is a must-see. Their orchid garden is a photographer’s paradise. Year-round temperatures on the Big Island average 82 degrees so anytime is the right time to go.
E Komo Mai – Welcome to Maui
The flight to Maui from the Big Island took just 40 minutes. This island is known as “The Magic Isle” and for good reason. I kept wanting to pinch myself as I experienced the sheer, jaw-dropping beauty of Maui coupled with laid-back, lovely people whose warmth and friendliness are genuine.
The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa is a special place. Among its many charms, 40 lush, oceanfront acres, a 750,000-gallon pool with a 150-foot lava tube water slide, nightly Polynesian Luau, four uniquely themed restaurants and Spa Moana, where I had still another chance to unwind. I highly recommend the spa’s Rainforest Propolis and Cocoanut Milk Wrap. No, you don’t eat it, you allow the therapist to slather you with it! Delicious – and calorie-free!
A Cosmic Experience
That evening, sufficiently de-stressed and limp as a dish rag, I did something that was exactly what I needed to rejuvenate. Called “Tour of the Stars,” I climbed to the roof of the hotel where I met Hyatt’s Director of Astronomy. Peering through a 16-inch telescope, I saw Uranus, Venus, Polaris and several other planets, not to mention a luminescent moon and a midnight blue sky with a zillion stars. A perfect end to my day in paradise.
The Westin Maui Resort & Spa is surrounded by tropical gardens, meandering streams and waterfalls. There’s much to keep you busy here: five swimming pools, an exhilarating Wailele Polynesian Luau, two 18-hole championship golf courses, a shopping center and, of course, the ubiquitous spa, this one aptly named Heavenly. At Heavenly Spa I had their Lavender Body Butter Treatment which put me firmly on Cloud 9, gliding back to my room, feet never touching the ground! I arranged to go on a Sunset Sailing Cruise which docked near the hotel. Boarding the Gemini, a catamaran, I spent two hours smoothly Tradewind-sailing with phenomenal views of West Maui, Molokai and Lanai, sipping Mai Tais and munching Hawaiian appetizers. One of the highlights of this sail was when the captain dropped anchor and we watched a glorious sunset, tiki torch lighting and some brave young men cliff diving at Black Rock near the Westin coastline.
Culture, Traditions and Fun
To get a feel for Hawaiian culture and an understanding of their traditions, a group of us attended the Old Lahaina Luau. Just two of the many offerings at this sumptuous breakfast luau were Island Stuffed French Toast and Kalua Pork Hash with Lomi Salmon. Then we watched (and participated in) demonstrations of kappa-cloth making, spear-throwing, and poi-making. We listened to Hawaiian stories and songs and left with a deep respect for the people of this island who are dedicated to keeping their traditions alive.
Hawaii is a paradise, pure and simple. It’s impossible to list all that makes these islands special, but I’ve managed to narrow it down to a few of my favorite things:
*A wake-up call by tropical birds
*Not having to wikiwiki (hurry-hurry)
*Snorkeling with amazing underwater life
*A gentle rain –quickly followed by more sunshine
*Your nightcap: the soothing sound of the ocean
*The Hawaiian motto: Ho’okahi no la o ka malihini: A stranger only for a day
Hawaiians have a saying: I mohala no ka lehua I ke ke’ekehi ‘ia e ka ua. Easy for them to say, but the meaning is simple and sweet: The Lehua blossom unfolds when the rains tread on it. During my stay on these islands, I did, indeed, experience the warm, gentle rain. I rested, I relaxed, I unfolded. And yes, it was great!
Oh, almost forgot. There is one thing I definitely do not like about Hawaii:
If You Go:
The Big Island
*Big Island Visitors Bureau, www.bigisland.org *Kona Village Resorst
*The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Queen Ka’ahumanu Hwy, Ka’upulehu Hi
72-100 Ka’upulehu Drive, Kaupulehu HI Tel: 808 325-7820, www.konavillage.com
Tel: 808 325-8000, www.fourseasons.com/hualalai *Hilo Bay Cafe
*The Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii 315 Makaala St, Hilo HI
1 North Kaniku Dr, Kohala Coast HI Tel: 808 935-4939
Tel: 808 885- 2000, www.fairmont.com/orchid
*The Palms Cliff House
28-3514 Mamalahoa Hwy, Hilo HI
Tel: 808 963-6076, www.palmscliffhouse.com
Maui Visitors Bureau *Old Lahaina Luau
www.visitmaui.com 1287 Front St. Lahaina HI
*Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Tel: 808 667-2998
3700 Wailea Dr., Kihei HI www.oldlahainaluau.com
Tel: 808 879-1922, www.marriott.com *Pineapple Grill at Kapalua Resort
*Hyatt Regency Maui Resort &Spa 200 Kapalua Dr, Kapalua HI
200 Nohea Kai Dr, Lahaina HI Tel: 808 669-9600
Tel: 808 661-1234, www.maui.hyatt.com www.pineapplekapalua.com
*Westin Maui Resort & Spa *Chez Paul Restaurant
2365 Ka anapaliPkwy, Lahaina HI 820 Olowalu Village Rd, Lahaina HI
Tel: 808 667-2525, www.westin.com/maui Tel: 808 661-3843
*Sea Watch Restaurant at Wailea
100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea HI
Tel: 808 875-8080
By Barbara Barton Sloane
A more grown-up attitude toward glamour is the big news in fall/winter fashion and the good news is this signals a return to the building-block basics of chic. Making a radical departure from romantic femininity, these looks speak to strength, cofidence and sex appeal, spot-on for today’s power woman. The designs are pared down to reveal their essence and value the sophistication of the lines. Now, after a spring season exploding with pyrotechnics, designers are learning to forgo frills in favor of strong, clean lines and a newfound maturity.
Appropriate for this season, Matthew Williamson for Pucci established an icy pastel palette mixed with graphic black and white. His silhouettes were perfect for the slopes with fur-lined parkas, shapely puff jackets, and skinny leggings. Completing the mood, there were cozy looks for fireside lounging in a suite at the Kulm Hotel. His furs, shearlings and brightly colored dyed fox juxtapose glam and sport, a feat he pulls off admirably. Williamson’s “coat of many colors” is pure Pucci. He has played with a palette of geometric shapes of dizzying hues: pink, purple, white and blue. With five seasons at Pucci behind him, it appears that Matthew Williamson has hit on a formula that works – resort dressing for the rich and fabulous.
If we’re in a recession, word hasn’t reached Oscar de la Renta. He’s still laying on the gold leaf. For fall/winter, his collection is replete with impeccable designs for gals young and old accustomed to La Dolce Vita. For day, de la Renta stayed true to his basic chic. There was a lovely, lean jacket in boiled cashmere over full-cut flannel pants and a boxy jacket in cashmere knit paired with a knee-length skirt in dip-dyed silk. Understated evening elegance was personified in elegant, full-cut black silk crepe trousers and lady-like white chiffon blouse with flowing scarf. Boom or bust, de la Renta knows what his ladies like.
Fall looks found Jean Paul Gautier of Hermes in a typically quiet mode. An oriental runway carpet was reinterpreted as a pattern for skirts, dresses, boots and jumpsuits. The collection figured heavily in coats, jackets, leather trenches and crocodile blazers. Long, thick-knit cardigans, shearlings and suede jackets lined in curly lamb were all accessorized with adorable knit caps and scarves. A very wearable yet utterly chic look: his brown leather skirt, elbow length gloves, and knee-high boots accessorized with a tobacco-colored skull cap and flowing knit scarf. The appeal of this low-key presentation is the quality of the workmanship and their “hand”, (their touch and feel), a Hermes hallmark.
Dennis Basso celebrates his 25th anniversary as a furrier this year, and there was a celebratory feeling in the air at his show. Lorraine Bracco arrived bearing a congratulatory bouquet and his loyal ladies came wearing his coats despite the pouring rain. No surprise, there were plenty of lavish furs on the runway worked in interesting, intricate ways as only Basso can do. The first look to come down the runway: a trapeze coat in creamy alligator on top and Russian sable below was a good indication of the luxe designs to follow. Basso loves to show off the limitless imagination of his design team. A broadtail jacket, to give just one example, was spliced with handmade lace inserts and trimmed in silver fox. In a crisp, buttoned-up look displaying the technical innovations of his factory, his model sashayed down the runway in a short gray wool skirt with matching jacket. The wow factor of this outfit was the elbow to wrist cuffs and hem trimmed in sumptuous silver fox, all topped off with a prim white shirt tied with a bow at the neck. Basso may have a quarter century of experience in the fur trade, but he has significantly less as a designer of ready-to-wear, as witnessed with an over-the-top trapeze dress that almost suffocated its model in marabou feathers. He made up for this, however, with three understated black gowns that his devotees would adore wearing underneath a Basso sable.
The drawing rooms of the Upper East Side that were the inspiration for Carolina Herrera’s spring show have been replaced with the wide open spaces of the countryside. But not to fear as the designer has not skimped on the look of luxe. This season, she’s focused primarily on separates, capes over matching jackets, long, slim pants, cashmere vests layered over chiffon shirts, and riding pants and jackets. This horsey look was explained in her program notes as something “to grab from the mudroom and throw over a crinkle chiffon gown for an elegant dinner on the farm.” Ah yes, those rustic dinners among the animals! A bit more citified was her beige cape over tight brown leggings, shiny patent boots and a blouse accented with a big champagne satin bow. Most of Herrera’s pieces could play in the city – velvet jeans, a long chartreuse chiffon dress and a floral jacquard vest worn over a corseted china blue gown trailing several feet of gazar in its wake - all clearly destined for the Park Avenue party circuit.
At Gucci, Frida Giannini got across quintessential Gucci-ness in all its sexy, show-offy persona, integrating a Russian/ Cossack/folklore feel with a hippie wardrobe: printy, shaggy, peasant designs that the Portobello market was known for in the seventies. Happily, the looks are cleaned up to work with today’s luxury values and this collection ranks as one of Giannini’s most confident so far, with a billowy-sleeved, embroidered peasant blouse over a pair of gold, chain-laden hipsters thrust into riding boots reminiscent of Rudolf Nureyev. The show swung into tapestry coats, short chiffon dresses, and flippy skirts. One particular standout was a silver-tipped fox jacket worn with stovepipe hipsters, a brightly colored peasant belt, and high black patent boots, their fringes swingy gaily.
The antler chandeliers spray painted gold were the first clue that we were in for a change of scenery at Ralph Lauren’s fall show, as he swapped Central Park for Colorado. His family retreat continues to be an inspiration for many of his signature looks and with this show, he reprised several of them, with grand results. He opened with a series of city dresses and suits in cashmere herringbone and black double-face that hugged the body. Soon, however, he headed west to the land of border stripe, swing jackets, red and black plaid suits and a hip-hugging blanket hunting jacket in green buffalo plaid. His plaids lingered after dark but for evening Lauren was far more than one-note. There were supple, draped velvets in hunter green and garnet decorated with beads. An even more dramatic look was a black tulle gown with a cutaway back. Lauren knows that wherever his ladies find themselves, out west or back east, they always have an RL party dress on hand.
Bianca Jagger was declared the inspiration for Badgley Mischka’s fall/winter collection. The seventies were the duo’s starting point, including a brick-red, crinkled leather jacket worn with a matching flared skirt and a tight-fitting apricot turtleneck and boot-cut glen plaid pants worn with a short and sweet broadtail and fox vest. Worked in among the floral shirtwaists, floppy felt hats and high suede boots were the team’s typical, reliable and tireless clothes that the gals with a Bergdorf charge card live for: a pencil skirtsuit in buff tweed shot with metallic thread, wool crepe tuxedo pants and a little silk faille jacket with short mink sleeves.
After a spring season exploding with pyrotechnics, for fall designers have learned to forego frills in favor of strong, clean lines, newfound maturity and wearable, wonderful, very welcome basics!