CZECHING OUT PRAGUE

The Best Little City in Europe
by Barbara Barton Sloane

This depends, of course, on your particular taste. If you’re looking for great theatre, head to London. Fabulous designer fashions, choose Milan or Paris. However, if you want to visit a city that is pure magic then you have to go to Prague! One of the most beautiful cities in Europe, thanks to its location and to more than a thousand years of glorious architectural tradition, it has a rich artistic, musical and literary history. The citizens of Prague are rightly proud of their city’s history, recently awarded the title World Heritage Site. But Prague, by no means, lives on its illustrious past alone. It’s a modern metropolis. Here the past and the present merge in a unique and very special symbiosis.

Tourists, Tourists Everywhere
If you stand in the Old Square surrounded by what seems like every single tourist in Europe, you realize that Prague is a prime tourist destination. But don’t let this discourage you from visiting. The very fact that visitors from all over the world come here makes Prague a vital, exciting and very cosmopolitan city with great energy and style.

Czech Airlines – Strange but True
I recently decided to discover for myself why Prague is called “the little Paris of the East”. I found a city alive with music and culture, breath-taking views, café-lined squares, and a multitude of fabulous museums. But more about that later. I’m getting ahead of myself. First, you’ve got to get to Prague, and the Czech Republic’s national airline is a wise choice, being the only carrier with non-stop daily flights from JFK to Prague. Now, here’s the strange thing about Czech Airlines: they get you there on time. No, let me amend that: they get you there ahead of time. My flight landed forty minutes ahead of schedule and on the return trip, we landed a full hour before our scheduled arrival. In light of the many problems airlines are fraught with today, this “ahead of time” business is strange. And kind of
wonderful! Coupled with fine service, friendliness, and professionalism, it all adds up to a very pleasant and comfortable trip.

A Neighborhood Inspired by Wine
When deciding where to stay – and there are, indeed, countless superb hotels to choose from – I offer this: In the quiet residential neighborhood of Vinohrady, which means vineyard, I found a distinctive Belle Epoque five-star hotel, Le Palais. It is a mere 15 minute walk from Wenceslas Square, the heart of town, and yet light years removed from the crush of tourists. The hotel offers guests all the amenities of a deluxe property. One evening after a day of serious sight-seeing, I checked out Le Palais’ well-appointed health club. Tired as I was, I couldn’t resist trying out all that shiny, impressive exercise equipment, and after that: heaven. I visited their really steamy steam room. In the process hopefully I lost a few of the pounds I put on with my spectacular lunch at The Intercontinental’s Zlata Praha restaurant with a view that just won’t quit! Then a hot, hot, hot sauna where I was able to really unwind. Finally, the piece de resistance and something unique to this hotel: an aroma shower. Don’t ask; you’ve just got to experience it for yourself, but suffice it to say, it’s a great way to end your day.

Staying in Vinohrady I experienced a true Prague neighborhood. Moms pushing babies in prams, lovers walking hand in hand down tree-shaded lanes, and everyone, it seems, walking their dog. Several evenings, before returning to my hotel, I stopped off at one of the many sidewalk cafes and never once saw another tourist! After a busy day, it’s nice to be able to retreat into the quiet and calm of Vinohrady and Le Palais. After my soothing bout with steam room and sauna, I was ready to call it a day.. I curled up under silky sheets and a down comforter. However, if you’re one of the many sleep-challenged among us, you’ll be delighted to know that you have both room service and a cozy bar and library open 24 hours a day!!

Now, let’s go discover!

The Other Five Towns
Prague is a virtual jewel, barely damaged by World War II. Settled by the Celts in 500 BC, it is made up of five towns: The Old Town, the Jewish Quarter, the Little Quarter, the New Town and Hradcany, the village around Prague Castle on the hill above the Little Quarter.

When one sees photos of the city of Prague, invariably in the background there’s Prague Castle. It seems to dominate every image of the city. So visiting the castle was numero uno on my list of things to do. It’s a long trek up the hill to this site, but oh so worth it. Originally the castle was the seat of Czech nobility and royalty. It is a monumental complex consisting of a palace, church, monastery and garden, all built in different styles. There’s a new boutique hotel, the Crown Plaza up on the hill, some small sidewalk cafes and several fine restaurants. On the day I visited Crown Plaza, it was hosting the Czech soccer team. In addition to experiencing the elegance of this property, the buff and cute team members provided a cool distraction.

A Most Excellent View
I had a once in a lifetime dining experience: dinner at Allegro, the restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel. I was given the choice of dining inside or on the terrace, overlooking the Charles Bridge and the Vltava River. Not a hard choice. It was a balmy spring evening, the setting sun cast a golden glow over the city, and I could barely tear myself away from the view to scan the menu. Luckily I did and had one of the most memorable dinners ever. For starters, a delightful lobster timbale with asparagus and black truffle dressing, followed by asparagus lasagna with taleggio cheese fondue, (asparagus is in season right now) and for dessert, strawberry-lemon cheese cake. The creator of this heaven-sent repast: Chef Vito Molica. Long may he reign over this kitchen!

In case you’re wondering, yes I did from time to time leave the table to stand at the terrace’s rail and gaze at the beautiful Charles Bridge. It spans the Vltava River and joins Prague’s Old Town (Stare Mesto) with the Little or Lesser Quarter (Mala Strana). Take a stroll across it. You’ll enjoy the sandstone sculptures, black with age, that adorn both sides. This is the oldest of Prague’s bridges, built in 1357 by Charles IV. It was from this very bridge that St. John Nepomuk was thrown to his watery death in the 14th century by order of King Wenceslas IV for refusing to divulge what the queen had told him in confession. The legend claims that as John drowned, five stars appeared on the water, and these five stars have become the symbol of the town’s patron saint.

Everything Old Is New Again
The roots of the Jewish Town reach down to the Middle-Ages, and happily the original network of streets is preserved. In addition to the Old–New
Synagogue (from the 13th Century), the Jewish Town Hall and most of the legendary Jewish Cemetery have been preserved. The cemetery was founded in 1478, and the area was quite limited. Thus, for lack of space, the graves had to be made in several layers – there are areas with up to twelve layers and more than 100,000 souls are buried here. The Old-New Synagogue is the oldest synagogue in Europe still in use. It was completed in 1270 and has endured much – from fires to pogroms.

Walking through Prague is like walking through a textbook of European architecture dating back from the 10th Century to….The Dancing House!
Gazing up at this building (Tancici dum in Czech), I feel a touch of vertigo. It is wavy, round in some places, flat in others, and undulating all over. The Dancing House is the work of renowned architect Fank Gehry and it is a joyous piece of architecture. Kind of makes you feel like dancing!

The Old Town Square (Staromestske namesti) is the central meeting point for all of Prague’s tourists. Young, old and everything in between, you’ll see it all here. I stand in the center of the square and slowly turn around, admiring all the glorious, historic buildings that circle it. The façade of the St. Nicholas Church dominates the square, a great example of both Gothic
and Rococo styles. The buildings’ facades are pastel, ice cream colored.
Sidewalk cafes are everywhere. Gelato anyone?

Near the Old Town Square, if you see a maze of people standing together, staring up at a tower, you’ll know you’ve found the medieval Astronomical Clock which dates from 1410. In the 17th Century, moving statues were added as well as figures of the Apostles. The figures are set in motion on the hour, each figure representing the four things which are despised. Starting with death, represented by a skeleton, then vanity, a figure holding a mirror, there are two more figures which are just too politically incorrect to even mention. You can think back over history and use your imagination. Anyway, though viewing the Astronomical Clock may not be your cup of tea, watching these four little figures do their thing each hour is very popular in Prague. I prefer people-watching myself and as I enjoy my pistachio gelato at one of the square’s cafes, I have a ring-side seat.

Before I return to my hotel, I take a walk through Wenceslas Square. Founded in the 14th century initially as a horse market, today it is home to elegant restaurants, cafes and shops selling the world-renowned Bohemian crystal.. So from humble roots selling horses, Wenceslas Square is now called Prague’s Champs Elysee.

Do You Believe in Magic?
Take a walk through this city’s winding streets at dusk. It’s not hard to believe you’ve stepped back in time and around the next corner you may just meet one of the famous from Prague’s past. Isn’t that Franz Kafka, sitting on a bench under the chestnut tree, deep in thought. Oh wait,
here’s Mozart out for a stroll with some musician friends. Past and present merging. But back to reality. It’s just my friends and I enjoying a typical Prague evening. And yes, it’s magic.

If You Go:
Czech Tourism, www.CzechTourism.com/USA, Tel: 212-288-0830
Czech Airlines, www.usa.czechairlines.com, Tel: 800-223-2365
Le Palais Hotel, www.palaishotel.cz, Tel: 420- 234 634 111
Four Seasons Hotel, www.fourseasons.com/prague, Tel:420-221 427 000
InterContinental Hotel, www.ichotelsgroup.com, Tel:420- 296 631 111
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, www.mandarinoriental.com, Tel: 420-233-088-888
Radisson Alcron Hotel, www.prague.radissonsas.com, Tel: 420-222-820-000
Crown Plaza Hotel, www.CrownPlaza.com, Tel: 800-315-2621